Denise – Page 5 – SLA Profiles (2017)

Catalunya and Spain: Whats the Difference?

Before Spain existed with the borders that we know today, Catalunya was a nation that controlled mediterranean coast of the Iberian peninsula from southern France to Alicante, along with parts of northern Africa, the balearic islands, and even corsica and sardana. They spoke their own language, also a derivation of latin, had their own history a greek and roman colonies and ports, and were a key force in driving the moors from the Iberian peninsula in the reconquest of Spain. However when King Ferdinand of Aragon married Queen Isabella of Castile in 1492 and sieged the final moorish stronghold in Granada, a new conception of a united Spain led the nation on its course to its modern state. Brimming throughout the 500 years since the uniting of Spain, has been ganas to obtain sovereignty for Catalunya. As the different regions of Spain have varying cultures, distinct histories, and unique languages, for many living in Catalunya and Barcelona, centralized power in Madrid is frustrating in that it is unable to meet the specific and often competing needs of different areas of the country.

As you walk the streets of Barcelona, the balconies above proudly displays flags were similar to that of the catalan region, however in addition to the red and yellow stripes, they boast a blue triangle and a white star. This flag is the symbol of the movement for independence of Catalunya. Modeled after the flag of Cuba after their separation from Spain, the flag is a symbol of solidarity with other provinces and nations that were at one time conquered by Castile.

The Catalan people are very proud have refuse to relinquish any part of their culture or language. Classes in public schools are taught in Catalan, with Spanish taught as a separate subject. Those born and raised in Catalunya are bilingual in Catalan and Spanish from a young age. In Catalonya, Catalan in the language of business. I had the opportunity to attend a reception for an association of lawyers who were looking to transform the leadership within their association and at this reception all of the keynote speakers spoke in catalan as well as the majority of conversation within the lawyers

To gain more insight into this tense, sensitive political issue that is steeped in culture and history I spoke to a family friend and my host mother who would be comfortable sharing their opinions with me, one who was opposed to independence while the other was strongly in favor.

My family friend from Barcelona, Mari Carmen, who has grown up and lived in the city her whole life, believed the idea of independence to be rash. While she understands the cultural frustrations she believes that Catalunya is too integrated into the economic and political systems of Spain to successfully secede from the nation. While she understands the cultural pride and economic frustration of some, she views those who want independence as a bit radical.

My host mother, Montse, holds the opposite view of Mari Carmen. She proudly flies the Catalan flag of independence from her balcony and participates in yearly demonstration of Catalan pride every September 11. Montse was always eager to answer any of my questions about the issues and it was very obvious that her opinions have been strongly formed by her deep family history rooted in the same neighborhood of Barcelona for generations. Montse explained to me that the issue of sovereignty for Catalunya is a political conflict, not a conflict with the people from any other region of Spain. While cultural pride drives the movement, the main issue to her and many other Catalan people is the federal tax system that takes their locally earned money and redistributes it to Southern provinces of Spain that have a stereotype of a cultural laziness.

Come October of 2017, Catalunya hopes to hold a referendum to gage the opinion of the Catalan people. However the central government in Spain is making efforts to stall or eliminate the vote.

After spending many weeks here in Catalunya and comparing their cultural heritage to that of other regions of Spain, it is very obvious to me how unique Catalunya is within the Iberian Peninsula. For videos that display the pride of the Catalan people and their yearly demonstrations for independence check out this link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iffJ1TgljE0

Tsukiji Fish Market

It’s hard to come to Tokyo and pass by the opportunity to visit the Tsukiji Fish Market. This is the market with the famous tuna auction that tourists lined up to see in the early hours of the morning, and where the cost of some tunas could go up in the millions. Many renowned sushi restaurants and chefs in Tokyo shop here for fresh ingredients, and it’s not hard to see why.

Like many neighborhoods in Tokyo, the Tsukuji Market is also imbued with its own set traditions and history. Its origin could be traced all the way back to the Edo period, when fishermen sold seafood near the Nihonbashi. The current controversy surrounding the market is the decision to move the market to another location.

Early on a Saturday morning, as the market unfortunately closed on Sunday and on some Wednesday, I made my way over to Tsukiji Station via the Hibiya line. As with all touristy spots, the place with hopping with people from all over the world. However, there was a good mix of local people just shopping at the market or browsing around. The market has an outer market and an inner market. The outer market has an opened-air/farmer market feel to it, and has a lot of cool snacks/food shop. There were delicious looking daifuku and tamoyaki on a stick and matcha ice cream and grilled seafood on a stick. I knew that I couldn’t go the Tsukuji Market and try some sushi, but the amount and types of sushi restaurants/stalls available to choose from was overwhelming. In the end, I decided to eat at Sushizanmai, a kaiten sushi chain store that’s pretty well known. Their tuna nigiris were delicious.

I haven’t posted in a while but I’m not Dead… Sea :)

First, I’m going to say that I’m extremely sorry that I haven’t updated this in quite a while. Life just keeps happening here and it seems like it won’t ever stop!

Second, let me update you finally!

After all the initial craziness and the first couple days of classes, I began to go to nearby coffee shops to do my work. Olga (my roommate in case you forgot) had mentioned that she had never had Starbucks before (WHAT?!) so we went there to do some work together. I was s-t-ruggling with my work and luckily a guy came over to help me with it! Olga and I got his contact information and ended up going to the Dead Sea with him! I know this sounds sketchy, but being a foreigner, it’s very common to have people approach you and want to become your friend since you speak English! Besides, how often can you go to the Dead Sea in your life? I guess as many times until you’re…. DEAD. Okay, that was bad.

Photo creds to the random lifeguard who took my phone without asking!

The weekend after that, Olga and I were invited by our friend Elias to go to Madaba, an area north of Amman, where we could go on a mountain and take some pretty sweet pictures. (If you look carefully, you can see the Dead Sea again). It was so nice because after we went to this amazing place, we went back to the home of his friend, Mohammed. I have NEVER drunk so much coffee and tea in my life. I’m not joking when I say I had about 6 cups of tea and 5 cups of coffee. Now these aren’t necessarily large cups, but still, continuously drinking coffee and tea can get kind off tiring and uncomfortable when your stomach becomes the size of a watermelon.

And this is what happens when they tell you to dance for some promotional video for a DJ in Russia!

Of course, my time here in Jordan wouldn’t have been complete if it didn’t continue the craziness that it had started with. Olga and I had decided to cook some noodles for dinner and we didn’t have a lot of bottled water left to boil so we used the water from the sink. Now, before you think that it wasn’t a good idea, I googled it to see if it was okay and everywhere I looked, I saw that you had to boil the water for 30 minutes. Not too shabby, I mean I even saw that you could purify water by adding bleach to it?! I was not about to drink bleach so I figured boiling it would be no problem. WRONG. After 40 minutes (I needed to be extra sure), our water had GREEN FOAM. GREEN!!! This next part was where I went wrong… I decided to pour the foam out and use the water anyways because how bad could it be? It was boiling for a while! Let me just say, it was pretty bad. I suffered the consequences of my mistake for about 5 days with only so much anti-nausea medication, but al-Hamdulilah! I finally overcame that just in time for our next trip!

Random photo shoot after some guy walked up to me and put some dust from a rock on my face! More natural than Bare Minerals!

That week, we went to Wadi Rum and Aqaba! I’ve already been to these places, but let me say, these are by far my most favorite places in all the world. In my opinion, I think they’re better than Petra, but of course, several others would disagree. Wadi Rum is a desert where there are several Bedouin camps for tourists to stay. That weekend, I was your typical tourist taking pictures of EVERYTHING. We first arrived in Wadi Rum and hiked around the rocks to get a pretty fantastic view of the camp and our surroundings. Afterwards, we went on this “Jeep” excursion (really, it was a pick-up truck with two benches in the back) around the area and saw some really cool things! For instance, in case you didn’t know, you can use the rocks to make make-up! There’s also a place where the Martian was filmed as well! AND there’s a plant that you can crush up and mix with water and make soap! You’ve got everything you’ve ever needed. Plus, at our camp, a great dinner was provided for us and following dinner was a HUGE dance party in the middle of the area. The best part was going out in the middle of the desert where there is absolutely no light, laying down in the warm sand, and looking up at the stars. You can see EVERYTHING—the Milky Way, shooting stars, constellations, airplanes, or whatever comes to your mind. It’s a beautiful time for reflection and relaxation, which you don’t really get while you’re here. It’s honestly my favorite feeling in the world because even in an unfamiliar country with so many crazy things going on around me, there’s a sense of peace that overcomes me. I can’t help but realize that regardless of how well things are going, there is a much larger picture of life that I can’t quite see, but I know that God has a mysterious way of fulfilling His will.

If you look closely, this is taken in front of the same rock that is in the other picture!! HOW COOL!

Photo creds to the amazing photographer riding in the other vehicle, Freja Ingelstam!

The morning after an extremely hot night in Wadi Rum, we headed to Aqaba for a luxurious day at the Red Sea! This is also the most beautiful and clear water I’ve ever seen, which is a good thing and a bad thing for me. In case you didn’t know, I HATE fish! I mean, they’re okay to look at but if they are anywhere near me, I will lose it. I definitely lost it quite a few times that day because a group of us decided to go out on a boat to see the coral reefs and swim further out in the water. Let’s just say I also learned how to swim REAL quick because I was NOT about to let some fish get anywhere near me. Despite all that, I absolutely loved the Red Sea and can’t wait to go back! Also, pictures will be coming your way in the next post!

The food was much more appealing than the awkwardness that appears in this photo

I also can’t forget to mention my language partner, Abeer! Her family was kind enough to prepare the traditional Jordanian dish, Mansaaf, for me to try and eat until I couldn’t eat anymore! Then they also made kataif for dessert, which is only made during the month of Ramadan. Talk about being welcomed with open arms! It was probably one of the best dishes I’ve ever tried in my life. Both of them! AND I ate with my hands, which is another one of my favorite things to do.

Every day, I always feel a range of emotions. Sometimes I want to cry because I’m going to miss this place or maybe the day was just very difficult for various reasons, other times I’m overwhelmed with joy because people will show me so much kindness that I’m so undeserving of. I can’t describe this trip in one word quite yet, but once I process everything, I’m sure I could describe it in a few words… I hope anyways! One thing that’s for sure is that I am learning more and more each day. Looking back, in the beginning, I didn’t feel confident in speaking to people at all. I’m not saying I’m the best or even good quite yet, but the amount of improvement that I’ve seen is something I’d consider an achievement. I’m able to understand significantly more now than I was before; now when people speak fast, I’m beginning to process the sentences as a whole rather than trying to translate every single word. THIS IS CRAZY TO ME! People can speak to me and I’m at the beginning stages of processing things in Arabic instead of English! The keyword here is “beginning.” I’m also learning patience in so many aspects. I expected to leave here almost fluent (wow, why did I actually believe that?), but I realize that there’s a lot more to learn to become fluent besides just vocabulary; I need to learn the culture in its entirety. Not just a short immersion, but I need to acquire every detail about this culture and language, or at least as much as I can! Stay tuned for my last couple weeks here!

Task 1

These days I have been enjoying my Japanese classes a lot. My teachers are very kind and they often add some interesting small stories in their daily life besides course materials during class time. Therefore, while learning Japanese as a language, I also got the chance to know many language uses unique to the Japanese culture.

This week we covered a grammar point called “…ほど…”, which means “to a certain extent”. Besides the expressions used commonly across cultures such as “死ぬほど暑い as hot as dying” and “泣き出すほど嬉しい too happy that cries”, I also learned one expression unique in Japan called “猫の手も借りたいほど忙しい”, meaning “too busy that even want to borrow a cat’s hand”. Cat is infamous for breaking things with its sharp nails, and so to borrow a cat’s hand is really adventurous. With this background information, it becomes easy to understand how busy that is. I feel this expression is very cute, because it shows one culture’s close attention to a small animal. Japanese people indeed love cats so much that when making a phrase they first think of cats. Out of interest, I asked my Japanese friends if this phrase is already an old one or is it still used commonly. They told me that they all understand this expression and although it has existed for a long time they think it is cute to use. Japanese people’s love for cats is so strong that on some islands cats even outnumber people.

While chatting in class, we somehow also came across a newly formed expression called ”肉食系” and “草食系”. When translated directly to English, ”肉食系” means carnivorous and “草食系” means herbivorous. My teacher, who was a middle aged woman, told us that these two words were used to describe man when they were first formed. “肉食系” people are more straightforward imprudent. In a love relationship, they are usually more direct in expressing own opinion and like to lead the situation. On the other hand, “草食系” people are more compliant and gentle. They like to move through a relationship slowly. Interestingly, my teacher added that nowadays many people also started to use them more when describing a woman. As the Japanese society become more open, “肉食系” woman grew in number. When I talked to one of my Japanese friends about these new phrases I learned, she was amazed by what my class covered. Besides laughing and discussing about how these two phrases were used on anime characters and in her life (on her classmates), she told me that there is even one more phrase derived from the two, “キャベツ系”. “キャベツ” means cabbage in Japanese. “キャベツ系” describes people who looks like “草食系” at the first glance but is indeed “肉食系”. This kind of people are like cabbage and have multiple personalities.

I like how in Japanese language, the expressions are very specific and lively, as if they contain their own stories. The class becomes more fun with the extra knowledge of these slang words.

Montserrat: The Virgin’s Perch Above Barcelona

July 1, 2017

Although the energy of Barcelona is so vibrant, colorful and loud, constantly being surrounded by foreign language, host mothers, other students, and the 2 million inhabitants of this city, some alone time was much needed. On Saturday morning, I hopped on a train that took me 53 kilometers outside of the city of Barcelona to a pueblo at the foothills of the area’s largest mountains.

Although most visitors choose to take a cable car and railroad track up the mountainside, I opted for the more challenging but less expensive option of climbing two hours to reach the monastery built into the top layers of this rock formation. Traveling alone and taking on this challenging hiked served as a test of my ability to be independent and persistent, some qualities that I hope to strengthen while abroad.

The silence of hiking alone was surprisingly tranquil. Rather than being lonely and disheartened, I enjoyed my own company. This experience so far has taught me that it’s just as important to spend quality time with yourself as it is with other people, to digest and reflect everything you’ve taken in. My energy on the way up came and went in spurts however the views from the landing on the mountain and the architecture of the beautiful medieval monastery were well worthwhile.

I was able to use my Spanish to communicate with tourist information desk about hiking directions and trails and the medieval history of the site. I also was able to have conversations in Spanish with other hikers that I encountered throughout the day, learning what this special place meant to them and getting tips on where to find the best views. I noticed that was listening was almost intuitive but my speaking fluency and usage of grammar structures still needs a lot of practice.

As many other tourists were clad with trendy platform sandals and cute sundresses, I was drenched in sweat and cloaked in a film of dirt and dust. Not the ideal image for pictures, but my rather organic appearance brought me closer to the meaning of the holy site as I chose the path that was taken by the faithful during the medieval ages and all of the pilgrims who later come to see the remarkable virgin of Montserrat.

Below are a few pictures of the dazzling church and the incredible views of rock formation, the Catalan countryside, and even the distant city of Barcelona set against the Mediterranean. Montserrat was a truly special place, seemingly placed by God’s hand himself. It is worth a day trip to experience the awesome power of nature, history, and humans devotion to higher beings.

Barrio Gotico: The Mystery and History and Romance of Rome

June 26, 2017

From the window of Conesa (my favorite local sandwich shop) with my pork, veggie, and cheese sandwich in hand, I look out onto St. James’ Plaza where the Taxi drivers of Barcelona protest the competition imposed by Uber. As they hoist their signs and shout along to Queen’s “We Are The Champions”, I can’t help but imagine if political manifestations of the old Roman Forum bore any resemblance to these moderns demonstrations. This central plaza in Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter served as the Forum in the old Roman city, Barcino, and is just one of many recuerdos of the rich history of Barcelona and Catalonia that connects this modern globalized city to the times of Christ.

In the labyrinth, stone-paved streets of El Barrio Gotico, you can find medieval romanesque churches tucked into the twists and folds of the alleyways, a dark, dusty, quiet escape from the roar of Las Ramblas. You can find the legend of Sant Jordi engraved into the intricate gargoyles adorning the royal palaces. You can find San Nicolas, the small hidden church in which Antoni Gaudi prayed every day. You can find an archive housing letters from Christopher Columbus to Queen Isabell and King Ferdinand as he undertook his journey to the New World. You can find the lesser known Fredric Mares Museum, home to over 3,000 works of sculpture from all periods in human history.

Although named El Barrio Gotico, this region at the center of Barcelona is not limited to the history and art of a fleeting medieval architectural period. El Barrio Gotico has been the heart of Barcelona since its founding as a Roman port to its expansion into an international city of more than 7 million. Every age, every historic event, every artistic movement, every inhabitant of Barcelona, every tourist has left subtle marks on this aged neighborhood, in the carving of buildings, in the worn cobblestones roads, in the prayers sent from the local churches. El Barrio Gotico contains the hearts and fantasies of all that encounter it.

Seven Weeks in Barcelona: Stuck Between Tourists and Natives

June 21, 2017

Seven weeks. Quite an ambiguous period of time. Too long to be a tourist frequenting the city’s mainstream attractions. Too short to have a sense of permanence in this city of 2 million. How do I approach these seven weeks and what is my place in this city polarized between proud native Catalans and transient international travelers?

As I walk through Las Ramblas and watch Americans fall into the tourist trap of restaurants boasting the “best paella in town”, I feel a sense of superiority. As a student, rather than a tourist, I am looking for more than just selfies in front of Gaudi’s buildings and a jug of Sangria at dinner. I am here to learn more deeply about the culture and its language to better connect with its people. However, I am constantly frustrated when my efforts to speak the native tongue are met with Anti-american sentiments and responses in English as if my Spanish was ill-attempted. How can I view myself any more genuine than a typical tourist if the native people of this place do not recognize me as such?

Although frustrating, confusing, and somewhat disheartening, this ambiguity provides me with an opportunity to be a positive representative of my home nation and pursue a genuine interest in culture, history, and language in order to fight a growing anti-american and anti-tourist sentiment in Barcelona.

I hope to go beyond Las Ramblas and the Barceloneta beach and find the spots that will become my usual. The coffee shop where I will sip a cortado and read my Spanish translation of “Game of Thrones”, the most peaceful square to enjoy a chocolate covered croissant, the best bocadillo joint for lunch in between my classes, my favorite museum to escape the noise of a city of two million.

For the next seven weeks I hope to speak as much Spanish as possible, speak to as many Spaniards as possible, and develop a home here in Barcelona.

Updates on my progress to come 🙂

วิถีชีวิต Ways of Life

Wat Rajamontean, two blocks from my apartment.

In Thailand, I became increasingly aware of the ways of life I had grown accustomed to in the states. I looked for some of the same creature comforts in Chiang Mai. The fact is, this approach of seeing and wanting things the way I am used to, is not a healthy way of living in another country. The more I was able to let go of these expectations, my experiences became much more interesting, rich and unique. Rather than comparing things or analyzing them, I started accepting that “this is how it’s done here…” (it is also interesting to understand why)

Many travelers, including myself, get too much information online about what to see and do, and how to act in other countries. After weeks of “trying on” behaviors that people had schooled me on, or learning from books and online forums, I realized that none of these were my own approach. As a newcomer to this area, I decided to take advantage (mindfully) of the fact that I don’t know all of the social norms. If I did something wrong, I learned from it. I made a conscious effort to let go of social insecurities or fears about how to act.

For example, I was unsure about social etiquette regarding monks. I visited many temples and regularly encountered monks. I had read that females are forbidden to initiate contact with monks. I made friends with an older Thai woman who introduced me to 6 young monks. They were all learning English and were eager to speak with me, but very shy. I was very nervous to talk with them too, and also to say things incorrectly, or disrespectfully in Thai. I soon realized that we were sharing the same fears. It was a great experience to exchange words and ideas with them. It simply required a courageous act to get it going. (I am now friends with a monk on the Line app!)

I also began to see the clashes of old conventional thinking and new waves of thought. This is a common subject of conversation with Thais from all walks of life. We are all trying to adjust to change and deal with differences. I thought about what makes New York City such a great place, and it’s the cultural diversity. I think the same holds true for Chiang Mai. I was able to sample Chiang Mai’s culture here and now, yet simultaneously, I was adding to its cultural flavor as well.

I attended an Arts Symposium at Chiang Mai University which included panel discussions led by Asian art curators. I visited nearby exhibitions and artist residency programs and connected with local artists. One of the reasons I chose to study in Chiang Mai is to build an arts exchange program between Thailand and the USA. It was particularly interesting to learn about the diverse perspectives on the shifting and potential arts scene in the region.

Other social meetings, food adventures and indulgences:

Ate Thai ice cream at the Night Bazaar! It was made by mashing fresh fruit and cream on a cold metal slab. The frozen cream is spread out and then rolled up, looking like a bouquet of roses when put into a cup. Then it’s piled with whipped cream, nuts, and other delicious toppings of your choosing!
Took 2 Thai cooking classes and OMG I made curry from scratch! My green and masaman curries were out of this world! Also learned how to make my favorite Thai dish – Som Tum, green papaya salad. (pix below)
New fruit adventures trying snake fruit, long kong, sugar apple, and wood apple! Oh, and a green orange too!
Got a traditional Thai massage at an Ex-Prisoners Women’s facility. They help train women inmates and ex-prisoners to make a living and to reintegrate into society.
Attended my 3rd meeting of the Lanna Toastmasters, a group for people to practice their Thai public speaking. It is mainly attended by native speakers, but I have been encouraged to get up to the podium and make a speech someday:)

Au revoir à Tours: Week 6

July 2nd – 8th

For the first time in my life, I spent the Fourth of July outside the United States. There were no Fourth of July commercials on TV. There were no red, white, and blue decorations in streets and buildings. (There was a red, white and blue flag on the Palais de Justice in Tours, but that’s the French flag and it’s always there.) In class, my professor asked if anyone knew what day it was. I looked around, saw a class full of blank faces, and remembered I was the only American in the class. It really put my place in this world into perspective. I don’t know any Swiss national holidays. Why should the Swiss girl in my class know any American ones? It was amusing and humbling, but a little lonely. I was glad to meet up with some of my American friends at lunch (and to discover that Tours had a Fourth of July Snapchat filter. Thanks, France!) Our host parents also served a celebratory aperitif before dinner that evening, and wished me and my roommate a bonne fete! before we left.

This was my last week in Tours, and it felt really short, especially because I was consumed with packing and with planning (I’m traveling around France and Spain for the next week and a half with my friend, and we left most of our planning till the last minute.) I did get to see one more castle, bringing my grand total for the summer to nine: the castle of Amboise, which offers amazing views of the Loire valley and river. You’re also allowed to sit on some of the furniture. After Amboise, we toured the Clos Luce, which was Leonardo da Vinci’s queen-gifted residence while he was in France. Then, on Friday, my host mother took me and my roommate to the house of Balzac, a famous 19th-century French writer who spent a lot of time in Touraine (the land in and surrounding Tours). That completed my history-and-architecture tour of the Loire Valley, at least for this summer.

Here I am sitting on the furniture at Amboise. I don’t have other pictures because my phone started being almost constantly dead when I went to visit places. It was dead at the Clos-Luce. It was dead at Balzac’s house. I did take a picture of the facade of Amboise, but I can’t find it.

I also finally ate escargots. My host mother cooked them for Thomas’ and my last dinner in Tours. (I thought I had eaten escargots in Brussels; the Belgian food truck called their boiled sea snails escargots, but everyone I talked to in France insisted that those aren’t actually escargots. Escargot just means “snail”, though, so I’m not sure what to think.) Anyway, I’d been apprehensive about trying escargots, but I actually really enjoyed them. I just tried not to think too hard about the fact that I was eating, you know, snails.

Looking back on my six weeks here, I can see that my French skills have in fact noticeably improved. My conversational and oral comprehension skills are much better; my vocabulary is bigger, and I can read French faster. When speaking French, I no longer have to plan out what I want to say in my head before I say it. My confidence in speaking French has also multiplied exponentially. My common sense has not. The other day I saw a billboard advertising a drink flavored with menthe poivrée, which I correctly translated, since I’ve improved so much at French, as meaning “peppered mint.” As I continued walking I thought about how weird cultural differences can be, and how no one in America would ever think of flavoring something with both mint and pepper, and how honestly that sounded kind of disgusting. And then I realized.

I’ve also gotten really used to living in Tours. The things that stuck out to me so much at the beginning of the summer, like the tiny elevators and the coffee bowls, are now just things that I take for granted. (I still don’t use the elevators, though.) I’ve gotten used to walking to school every morning through narrow streets, and to stopping in at bakeries to grab a sandwich for lunch. I’ve gotten used to four-course, hour-plus-long dinners with my host parents. I know some people here that are more than ready to go home. Part of me understands that feeling, but most of me has no desire to leave. I’m definitely going to miss Tours.

Ne parle pas anglais: Week 5

June 25th – July 1st

I’m back on my castle-visiting kick. I visited three this weekend alone. (It’s Sunday evening.) Yesterday I went on an Institute trip to Cheverny, a castle that was an aristocratic (not royal) residence still furnished with its own original 1800s furniture, and Chambord, a gigantic (seriously, gigantic) castle built by Francois I in the early 16th century. Today I took the train on my own to Blois, a castle which I’d never heard of before but is now maybe my third favorite of all of them (this is significant, since I’ve visited eight castles so far. My French summer is one part language immersion and one part history/architecture tour of the Loire Valley.) Blois was a primary royal residence in the 16th and 17th centuries, and was then the subject of a massive restoration project in the 19th century, which means it’s a) full of history and b) really well-restored. Catherine de Medici died in it.

Cheverny, featuring me and some of my friends. I didn’t get any pictures at Chambord, since my phone died. Which is awful, because I loved Chambord, and it was really impressive.

Blois makes a U shape; this is the left side of the U.

This is the right side of the Blois U-shape.

Class sessions at the Institute last four weeks, so at the end of last week I moved up a class. Now, in phonetics class, we’re learning how to speak and understand “familiar” French (French slang, informal pronunciation, etc.). This is fun, but difficult, since I’ve been having enough trouble learning how to speak and understand formal French. My new class is also more lecture-heavy than my old one, which focused a lot on discussion and student presentation. I miss the discussion, but I’m now learning some significant things about French writing structures, and have added several words to my vocabulary.

I went to see a documentary with a friend this past week, and I was actually able to understand and follow it really well. Not perfectly, but really well. Unlike Finding Nemo, I had never seen this documentary before, nor was I familiar with its subject matter.

Sometimes it’s difficult here to actually gauge my language progress. It’s slow and gradual, and it’s difficult to see changes day-to-day, or even necessarily week-to-week. To make matters worse, the more I learn, the more I realize I still have to learn. Paradoxically, the more competent I actually become at French, the less competent I feel. But having benchmarks, like understanding a documentary this week when three weeks ago I couldn’t understand a two-minute sound byte, helps.

In other news, nearly all the American students have left the Institute. June is a really big month for American university groups to go to the Institute, but they usually only stay four weeks. So, in June, the Institute is majority American, but now I’m actually the only American in my class.

However, even though the Americans are nearly all gone, almost everyone here still speaks English to each other. This is a problem that we actually had a (French) discussion about in class the other day. The thing is, practically no one from a non-English-speaking country is learning French as their second language. If you want to learn a useful second language, and you don’t already speak English, you’re going to learn English, and then after that you’ll learn French or another less-widespread language. It’s not everyone, but the majority of people at the Institute have either grown up bilingual with English, or have been learning English for years. (There are also some people who are here learning French as their fourth or even fifth language). So most of the time, everyone’s highest-competency common language is English. And everyone is at different levels of French. So most of the time when we all talk to each other, we speak English. I’ve hung out with people from Taiwan, Turkey, Colombia, Spain, Germany, Switzerland, Japan, Sweden, and China, and that’s just a few of them, but with minimal exceptions we’ve communicated for the most part in English. It’s made me realize how lucky I am to have such a ubiquitous language as my native one, but it’s also been a real difficulty (for all of us) as we’re trying to immerse ourselves in French. Sometimes, we’ll impose a strict French-only rule on ourselves for lunchtime or something, but most of the time we take the English path of least resistance. I speak only French to my host family, and in class, and to people like shopkeepers, museum guides, bus drivers, and doctors, but I would probably be making even more conversational progress if I were speaking French with my friends here too.