Author: agriff25

I’ve been back in South Bend for three days now, and this post is a little overdue, but I will close my blog out with some final reflections on my experience this summer. I am truly grateful for the opportunities that the SLA grant has provided me. This experience was absolutely incredible and I highly encourage anyone who is considering this to apply. Not only did my language skills improve by leaps and bounds, but I was able to gain a far greater understanding of Middle Eastern culture and heritage.

A question almost everyone has asked me … What was the best thing about Jordan?

Without a doubt, the views. Although I was in class most of the week, I was able to travel around the country on the weekends and visited both Mount Nebo and Umm Qais. At Mount Nebo, spread out before my eyes was the exact same landscape of the Promised Land that Moses viewed before his death. In Umm Qais, I was able to look out over the Golan Heights and the Sea of Galilee as well as parts of Israel, Palestine, and Lebanon. I can’t get over the feeling of standing on these mountains and being able to see ancient, Holy Land that has so much history behind it. What really fascinated me is that I knew I was looking past Jordan into parts of Israel and Palestine, but I was unable to tell the difference based on the landscape, yet borders are probably the most contentious topic in the region at this time. Similarly, I found it really interesting how the geography of the area was presented on various maps and by different people. The same town in the distance would have two different names – one Israeli and one Palestinian. I was looking out at these beautiful cohesive landscapes that are some of the oldest historical and religious landmarks, and it is impossible not to be aware of the fact that there is so much tension currently surrounding them. It seems incongruous with the natural beauty, yet cannot be separated from it. Maybe it is strange to say this was the best thing about Jordan, but for me, it was the most powerfully moving experience of my time there.

Coming back to America was in some ways a great relief. I’ve never really never been in a situation where I am a visible minority. Every time I would walk down the street and move my gaze to look at something or someone, they were already looking at me. I was very aware of eyes on me at all times and that is something I never got used to and am glad to leave behind.

Wearing shorts upon return felt very strange at first. It’s been two months since I have worn anything that goes above the ankle. I’m not really sure what I think about that.

Also, I no longer need to be continuously conscious of my water intake. Something I never mentioned before was the water situation in Amman. Jordan is obviously a very water-scarce country. I was aware of this before traveling, but I wasn’t really sure what that would mean. Basically, in my building and it seems to be the case for all residential buildings in Amman, each apartment has a designated water tank (1-2 m³) that sits on the roof and gets refilled once a week. This is our water allotment for the week. We were advised not to drink the tap water, and so we, along with many Jordanian residents, had a jug of filtered water that we used for drinking and cooking. The water allotment was honestly not a huge issue, but I definitely showered less frequently and whenever I used the water, I was very cognizant of what that would mean for the rest of the week. It is so nice to be able to drink straight from a tap instead of a plastic jug.

Trash and Plastic:

Unfortunately, Jordan has very very few recycling initiatives and trash cans are also not easy to find, which means that there is a significant amount of trash that accumulates on the streets and sidewalks. Even when we would drive far outside the city, the highways are still lined with trash. It’s honestly very sad.

Things I will miss:

Coffee:

I don’t really ever drink coffee in America. However, the coffee in Jordan is amazing. I think because they put cardamom in it, and maybe this has something to do with lack of sleep due to work, but I found that I really enjoyed the black coffee, and I will definitely not be able to find anything similar in South Bend.

Knafeh.

Good and cheap produce:

In Jordan, I could buy all the fruit and vegetables I needed for the week for under 10 USD. It’s amazing, and especially coming back to South Bend, where fruit is not abundant at all, this will be a challenge.

Almost every time I walked anywhere, someone would honk from their car and yell “Welcome to Jordan” out the window. This slightly alarmed me at first, but after the first couple instances, I thought it was really funny and an example of how genuinely welcoming and friendly most of the Jordanians were.

Language:

I’ve still been thinking in Arabic, and sometimes in conversations, I will find myself about to answer that way instead of in English especially with certain phrases and expressions. Some of the phrases I just cant seem to shake from my vocabulary, nor do I want to, because they are expressions we don’t really have in English and perfect for certain moments. My roommate has now started to say them as well to the point that I slightly regret teaching them. Inshallah she will stop using them with time.

For future SLA recipients:

I came into this experience armed with as much information as I could find, which is to say, not very much. I tried to read the previous Jordan SLA blogs to get a sense of what I could do there, and especially as a woman how traveling would be, but I just wasn’t able to find very much information. Everything else in the remainder of this post is for those who travel to Jordan in the future and will hopefully give you ideas for where to go, what to do, and how to get there.

Jordan Adventures:

– Ajloun Castle (6/14) – Organized by Qasid

– Amman Citadel (6/15) – we walked up the hill which was horrible but memorable

– Wadi Mujib (6/23) – We were driven by a local man that some friends met in the mall

– Aqaba (6/27-30) – Jett Bus

– Snorkeling in Red Sea

– Mamluk Castle

– Sharif Hussein bin Ali Mosque

– Jordan Museum (7/1) – BRT (Amman Bus)

– Umm Qais, Golan Heights, Sea of Galilee (kind of) (7/7) – Qasid

– Alf Leyla wa Leyla Turkish/Moroccan Baths (7/14)

– souq jumaa (7/14) – in Amman, just take a taxi or walk

– Souq jarra again (7/14) – Rainbow Street

– Palestinian Embroidery Workshop (7/20) – Deewan Institute

– Wadi Rum (7/21) – Qasid

– Petra (7/22) – Qasid

– Barqash Forest (7/28) – Qasid

– Al-Salt (7/29) – Uber there and Back is easy and affordable

– King Abdullah Mosque (7/30) – in Amman

– Madaba, Mount Nebo, Dead Sea, Baptism Site (8/4) – We got a driver for the day because we were going from place to place – the price ended up being 30 JD each, including tip

– Amman Amphitheater for a concert (8/11) – tickets are cheap, many concerts happen there

Churches:

English Mass – Amman Jesuit Center

Arabic Mass – St. Joseph’s Church in Jabal Amman

Best Cafes to study outside of the apartment:

– Rumi Cafe – Weibdeh

– Manara – Weibdeh 

– Books@Cafe – Jabal Amman – student discount, go in the evenings

– Wild Jordan – Jabal Amman

– Marouf Cafe – the Sports City one is terrible but the others are good

– Almond Coffee House

Good Food:

– Shams al-Balad – Rainbow St.

– Bab al-Yemen 

– Hashem –  Wast al-Balad

– Al-Quds – wast al balad

– chapter 9 cafe – Abdoun

– Habiba – Wast-al-Balad

– Maestro -Weibdeh – American night with live music on Monday night

– Islamic Chinese – by University of Jordan

– Gerard – best ice cream

– Hamada

– Cantaloupe – Rainbow St.

– Dali House – Weibdeh

– Blackstacks (burgers) – Abdali Boulevard

– Mijana – Rainbow Street

– Bekdash – Wast al-Balad

– Pizza n’Pie – Sports City – nutella calzone

– Taipei Chinese

– Noodasia – sushi deal on Saturday and Tuesday

– Biryani Restaurant – Wast-al-balad

With less than a month left in Jordan, I’m facing a question that simultaneously discourages and encourages me. Is my Arabic improving? My answer changes almost daily. Certainly, I know a lot more vocabulary now than before, and if I measure improvement according to how my skills in writing, reading, and listening have developed, then certainly yes. My dad also said something to me which gave me a new perspective, which is that if I find myself thinking in Arabic, this is a good measure of improvement and enhanced familiarity with the language. This gave me renewed hope because often I will find myself thinking in Arabic.

My biggest excitement and indication of tangible improvement is finally being able to read Middle Eastern Literature. One of my favorite books of all time is called “Season of Migration to the North” by Tayeb Salih. I got a copy in Arabic and found that I know most of the words and have been able to read the book at a decent pace. There are so many expressions and words that lose their meaning and effect in translation. Being able to read the original is for me a huge coup and incredibly enjoyable.

On the other hand, if I measure success and improvement by speaking, I don’t think I would be able to tell much of a difference. While I definitely see a little improvement, have more confidence speaking, etc … I still have not crossed the threshold to complex speech, rapid speech, or reached a level of confidence to get to that point. It’s strange because when given a topic, I can write quickly and accurately what I want to say, but I seem to need that step – without the writing, I am unable to speak directly from my head on any advanced topic. This will just take practice, and I see improvement, but am making slow progress.

I feel like this one is partly my own fault and potentially a lack of jumping in with both feet, but in many ways, I am limited by the fact that I am a woman and the cultural norms that surround this. For example, in any taxi situation, most of the time it is culturally inappropriate for a driver (always male) to engage women in conversation. Thus, my male classmates have far more experience using Ammiyah in these kinds of exchanges. Another of my male friends has been using Facebook groups to find speaking partners and connecting with random people online, something I am not comfortable doing. Other male friends were spontaneously invited to tea by the man who operates the SIM card store. None of this would be appropriate if a woman stood in the same situation, and if an invitation was extended, it would not be wise to accept. I have had to think more creatively of ways to practice speaking, and besides RC Camp, have honestly been largely unsuccessful.

One thing to take away from this is that when I come back to the Middle East (Inshallah) for any future study programs, I need to put myself in a position where I cannot fall back on English at all, potentially staying with a host family or going to an area with fewer English speakers or no English speakers at all.

Another small thing is that this experience has definitely shifted my inclinations toward certain career aspirations. I’ve known for a long time that I’ve had little interest in creating policy or working in a diplomatic/governmental sphere. But this dislike has only increased since being here. I’ve really enjoyed the interactions that I’ve been able to have, especially with the kids at camp and the other coaches and volunteers. I think that if I really want to use my skills to make change and do good, I need to work directly with people. It’s been really interesting to observe the sentiment around certain political issues in this region, but more than that to see their long-term effects and see how people adapt and respond to them. Jordan is a country that takes in a lot of refugees from many different areas of the Middle East. I want no part of any kind of work that further exacerbates these kinds of situations for people.

Other Notes:

• It is actually HOT now, and I honestly have so much respect for my teachers and many of the women in this country, who walk around outside completely covered in 100-degree temperatures.
• The natural beauty in Jordan is unlike anything I have ever seen. I lack the words to describe it but I am continuously blown away and moved by each place I visit.

3 weeks in Jordan! My time here has gone by so fast already.

Since coming here, I have had some amazing experiences, of which probably the biggest highlights are going to Wadi Mujib with a group of other Qasid students (huge thank you to John, Shamiran, and Dante for organizing the entire trip), being in Aqaba over Eid and snorkeling in the Red Sea, and attending mass at the Jesuit Center with the other Notre Dame students.

Still, until recently, I felt like I was failing in a major way by not engaging enough with the local communities in Amman. For the past two weeks, I had woken up at 7 am, attended class from 8 am – 1 pm, then begun homework, or returned to the apartment with one of my roommates and literally collapsed from exhaustion, only to begin homework 2 hours later. Yes, there is a lot of work, but I was acutely aware of the fact that I could be finding ways to engage with the city throughout the week and still get everything done. I felt very inadequate, like a piece of this experience was still missing.

However, after going to the orientation for the Reclaim Childhood camp, my outlook took a significant turn. At the orientation, I was able to meet all the coaches and the other volunteers, and we spent the whole afternoon playing soccer, basketball, and frisbee, and practicing the drills that we will be teaching the girls. Yes, we were playing games that are meant for 8-year-olds, but I had so much fun. All of the games were team-oriented and while there was a language barrier, through working together, laughing together, and smiles and shouts of encouragement, I felt enveloped in a sense of community that I had not expected to find. I was surprised at how competitive the games became. I think it was the way that these women carried themselves – with an air of confidence and a level of competitive assertion that I guess I had not expected to see, considering that women are second-class citizens here in numerous ways. I was deeply touched by how nice, supportive, and invested these women are in RC’s mission. It is clear that they all want the girls to have fun, but they also want to build a community for them, teach them that it’s okay to be aggressive, and demonstrate to them that they have immense opportunities and potential. The experience was very touching and I don’t think I’m expressing it well, but I cannot wait to be a part of its impact and meet the girls when camp starts on Monday.

I finally made Jordanian friends! While at the orientation, I met two Jordanian girls my age who are also volunteering. We talked back and forth in both English and Arabic, and they gave me so much advice about the city, things to do, places to go, and dishes to eat, as well as some expressions to use in daily life. I got their numbers and we will be volunteering together throughout all of July! I rode the bus back with one of the girls who lives in the same neighborhood, and she was so sweet, telling me all about her family’s traditions during Eid and promising to bring some of the cookies that she is baking to the first day of camp. SO kind. That is one thing that has been so unexpected – people’s generosity. Obviously, not every offer is candid but many people I have met here are just genuinely very kind. 

Also, the entire orientation was in Arabic in the Ammiyah dialect (different from the MSA that I am primarily learning, but since it is the spoken dialect it’s a bit easier to pick up). I understood far more than I anticipated, and I think that demonstrated to me that I am actually making progress, even though it does not always feel that way.

Safety as a Woman in Amman:

Amman is pretty safe – much safer than I expected. There have only been a couple of situations where I have felt particularly uncomfortable, but I’ve realized that a lot of problems go away if you are married, so in certain situations, I will switch one of my rings and this has been really successful.

One thing I love about Amman:

The feral cats! Cats are everywhere in this city – you can be walking down the street and you will see at least one. Or if you sit in a random restaurant or cafe, a cat will just walk into the room and sit right next to you. This is such a unique aspect of Amman and I love it!

I’ve been in Amman for only a few days, but the learning curve has been immense.

General Thoughts about Amman:

Amman is NOT a walkable city. The terrain is extremely hilly, and something half a mile away is actually virtually inaccessible by foot. There are also no crosswalks anywhere, even on major streets, and driving is very aggressive, so crossing the street is really a matter of confidence. This being said, taxis are astoundingly cheap, which makes every part of the city super accessible.

People don’t use street names or addresses – this really distinguishes the locals from the tourists. Instead of using the street names posted on signs, certain streets are known by completely different names, and it is crucial to know nearby landmarks, such as a mosque or a mall, in order to communicate where you live or need to go. This system leaves me extremely confused.

The Adhan (the Muslim call to prayer) plays over loudspeakers all throughout the city 5 times a day. It is truly beautiful and is a spiritual experience all its own – even if you aren’t Muslim. Every time I hear it, I am so moved by its unitive quality. Every single person in this city of 4 million people is experiencing this all at the same time. The cadence of the muezzins reverberates off of buildings and throughout the many hills of Amman, echoes, and builds. There is truly nothing like it.

Walking around Amman as a women means that pretty much on every street, someone will honk from their car, or possibly slow down as they drive past, or yell something from their window. But again, I think everything is a matter of confidence, and since I am always walking in a group, these kinds of things just roll off the shoulder and, as I was warned, is just something that is a part of living in this city.

Language learning going forward:

“Arabic is a jealous language – if you give it all of you, it will give you half of it.”

There is a BIG difference between learning and speaking a language in class and using it in a practical setting. Tourism is a main industry in Amman, so English is everywhere throughout the city, and since I obviously do not look Arab and am walking in groups where all of us seem vaguely unsure of ourselves, people will peg us as foreigners right away and start speaking English. This is challenging because even if I try to use Arabic, they will respond in English. Most of the exchanges I have had are in grocery stores or restaurants, so they are quick exchanges, and especially in the first few days, these exchanges left me very discouraged because how am I supposed to put my Arabic in context if I can’t use it?

During Qasid orientation, we were told that that to really improve, for better or worse, we need to study Arabic with a level of obsession – full commitment. My roommates and I have discovered that the only television channel we receive is a kids cartoons channel, and we have gotten in the habit of watching cartoons in Arabic every morning to pick up simple vocab and sentence structure. If that is not the beginnings of obsession, then I don’t know what is.

In order to use Arabic in practical settings and improve, which is what I came here to achieve, I need to have more intentionality, speak in Arabic when I can, think in Arabic, and have patience (not my strong-suit by any means). I think that Reclaim Childhood will also be a space where I am encouraged to speak and am able to absorb dialect.

Another issue, which will resolve in time, is custom. There are fixed phrases that you are expected to say when exiting a taxi, meeting someone, or in other simple exchanges. I always leave these exchanges feeling that I have said the wrong thing or have somehow been rude, even if that was not the intention. There is so much to learn and using Arabic in a practical interpersonal context is both daunting and exciting.

Qasid showed us the typical learning arc, which consists of initial motivation around levels 1 and 2 when you are learning a lot and every concept is new, plateau at level 3 when you realize how much you don’t know and how much work is ahead of you, and then continued motivation at the higher levels when you begin to see your work pay off. Right now, I know that I am in that level 3 plateau and it’s important to just keep going and stay motivated. Classes begin tomorrow and I am excited to continue chugging along on the route to fluency. But the road ahead is long, and coming here has made me aware of just how much I still need to learn.

Highlights:

My roommates are amazing, so sweet, and all so motivated to learn this language and experience everything that the city has to offer. We are in the beginning stages of planning a trip for the 5-day Eid break!

The Amman Citadel / Temple of Hercules: The views alone are breathtaking, but I think the coolest part is learning about the history of this ancient city. One of the aspects that drew me to studying Arabic was the rich history of the Middle East and the desire to more deeply understand history through language (the evolution of the Arabic language and its dialects is extremely fascinating but also extremely overwhelming for someone trying to achieve fluency). But when I think about how many people walked this land, how they lived, worshipped, and communicated with each other and surrounding civilizations, I become amazed and imbued with a desire to learn more.

Produce here is so good and so cheap. Fruit is my main food group and there is a souq within walking distance of the apartment with amazing produce, including pomegranates.