Batumi by Train, Blog #2

Georgia is an ancient land. It was one of the first countries to christianize, and has been at the crossroad between larger empires for millennia. Nestled amidst the foothills and valleys of the Caucuses, Georgia has preserved its unique culture amidst a tempestuous past. Some speculate that is was here amidst the verdant foothills and sloping broad valleys of the Caucuses that fermented grape juice would be first processed and drank. Wine has become central to Georgian culture, and this sense of merriment continues through piquant Georgian cuisine and all palatable potables.

During a three day sojourn in Tblisi, I was met with breathtaking views, lavish dining, and an unforgettable wine tour. By train I carried on towards the black sea coast and arrived in the subtropical port of Batumi, where I met my wonderful host family. Moving into a completely non-english speaking environment has been a shock therapeutic experience for bolstering my language skills, but I am much appreciative of it. One thing I have noticed is that my host family is extremely hospitable especially given their modest Brezhnevka apartment.

Georgia is known for its resplendent hospitality. During my stay with my host family and other Georgians I have been offered more than words can describe. In America, I am used to eating a light diet and preparing food myself cheap and quick. Never before have I seen so much care put into the preparation and execution of a meal than here, be it for host or guest. My host grandmother also does most of the cooking and cleaning of the household, and refuses vigorously when I try to help. In America there is different expectations regarding housework and I was not used to the Grandmother living with the entire family and doing the house work.

While I at first felt a sense of sorry I came to see the situation through a different lens. Georgia has a strong matriarchal history and the older women as the center and keeper of the house is a proud tradition that goes hand in hand with hospitality. I think that it is important to recognize culture not as a barrier but something we are either born into or adapt to. When I sit at the dinner table and talk amongst my hosts as we eat and drink, I realize that I have not just moved physically (though the flight was long), but also through thousands of years of enshrined traditions and customs that makes Georgia unique.

Pre-Departure – Batumi

The surrounding forest, as though in a mist,
Was blue in the powder of smoke.
But there, far off, in a disordered ridge,
Which was yet eternally proud and calm,
Stretched the mountains

Mikhail Lermontov, “The Novice”

This summer I will set off to Batumi, Georgia for six weeks to study the Russian language. Georgia in particular has caught my eye as a wonderful place to immerse myself in an ex-Soviet country that hosts many Russian speakers. Inspired by the great writing of Lermontov and other authors, I have read enchanting tales of the mighty Caucasus Mountains. I have been swept away by the romantic descriptions of the dominating peaks and verdant valleys of the countryside. The natural scenery of Georgia (from what I have seen) seems breathtaking and I greatly look forward to that aspect. Further, I am thrilled to delve into the rich Georgian culture.

Learning about Georgian culture, I hope to visit as many cultural monuments and churches as I can find. While I am a student of Russian, the Georgian culture goes far beyond its history as a Soviet Satellite and Imperial Territory. I did not know before planning to go there for example, that Georgian is in no larger, widely spoken language family such as Indo-European, and lacks many cognates with other languages. I am also thrilled to try their (from what I have heard) amazing cuisine and wine, and live in a black sea resort town.

However, my purpose of travel is primarily study. As a Russian major with three years of Russian under my belt, I would be remiss if I did not visit at least a semi Russian speaking country during my time at university and gain an adequate level of fluency. In particular, I hope to learn to communicate on a conversational level and talk with the older generation of their experience living in the USSR. I am also keen to talk with my generation to listen to their perspective on life and more, and see a non-western perspective.

To wrap things up, I greatly look forward to this adventure, and hope to learn as much as possible. Beyond the necessities, I hope to limit all ‘screen time’ and read, study, explore, and talk as much as possible. Even if that can be uncomfortable at first, my future self will thank me. I can’t wait to see what Georgia has in store!