Xi’an

As our first “semester” here in China came to an end, we as a class were able to take a trip to Xi’an to further experience Chinese culture, practice our language, and learn more about ancient Chinese history.

The trip started with an overnight train ride from Beijing to Xi’an, which allowed us to experience a form of public transport that many of us have not seen in the US.

I found Xi’an’s most famous historic site, the Terra-cotta Warriors, to be of course extremely mesmerizing and interesting. There are over 6,000 statues that were originally built to protect the tomb of the Emperor Qin Shi Huang (founder of the Qin Dynasty). We were able to see all 3 chambers, although they have not all been completely restored for the purpose of preserving the statues. However the statues that have been restored are all so unique and detailed and amazing to see.

I also thoroughly enjoyed a particular theatrical show that we saw during our trip called the Song of Everlasting Sorrow. This performance followed the story of Xuanzong, the seventh emperor of the Tang Dynasty, and his tragic love with Lady Yang. The show was full of talented performers, plus I was extremely impressed by the technology of the production as well as the utilization of the location. The stage was an outdoor stage among the mountains, creating one of the most beautiful setting for a show I’ve seen. They even managed to light up the mountains to create and even more beautiful picture. But it wasn’t just the production that impressed me, the show also was extremely emotional through its storytelling, leaving the audience in awe throughout the whole show.

Lantern Festival

 

The Lantern Festival is a Chinese festival that marks the final day of the traditional Chinese New Year Celebration. Those who are well-versed on Chinese history know that this day is significant for several reasons. There are many different legends and myths tied to this day. They include several different emperors, warriors, gods, and mythical creatures. Each story has a different explanation for the lighting of the lanterns. One belief is that the festival celebrates humans’ ability to move about at night with human-made light during the darkness of winter. A legend claims that the lanterns are lit to commemorate an ancient warrior who died while leading a successful rebellion against a tyrannical king. Regardless of how the tradition began, this day is special to so many people across China. On the 15th day of the Chinese New Year, children go out at night to temples carrying paper lanterns and solve riddles. In ancient times, only those who hold high social status had ornate lamps, and the rest were relatively simple.

Today, lanterns come in many different shapes and sizes and hold different meanings for every person who celebrates the Lantern Festival. Although for many, the lanterns can symbolize the people releasing their former selves and beginning their new ones which will be released a year later. The lanterns are also almost always red, the most popular color in China, which can symbolize many different things including good fortune.

1 – Sono Tornataaa!

The First Gelato Upon Return

So I’m finally back in Rome, and I’m ecstatic. Not only does it feel like a homecoming, but I’m more confident than I’ve ever been in my conversational Italian abilities. Before I arrived here, I had taken part in a program with VoluntarItaly where I served as an English TA for a summer camp called GREST. There I was working with elementary school kids from 8:00a to 5:00p, so it’s been great to have time to myself these days.

On the first day of class, I had to run to catch the bus. While I was running, all I could think is, “First class back in Rome and I’m already running for transport. Typical.” Once I arrived at ItaliaIdea, I was told to go into classroom 6. Unknowingly, they had placed me in the beginner classroom. I thought to myself, “Okay, I can just stick it out the first week and maybe I’ll learn something new.” We started out by learning how to introduce ourselves, and I knew that if I was going to learn anything in the class, it would probably be at the end of the six weeks. I needed to switch out. Shortly after the mid class break, I asked the teacher to be switched to the proper level. I later found out that the man who had my correct placement had been out sick the day I arrived. I later met my proper classmates, most of which come from the U.S. and one from Barcelona.

Later Monday night, we went to Rec 23, a local bar that hosts a ‘language exchange’ every Monday night. At this exchange, Italians come to the bar to meet foreigners and practice another language that they are studying, whether it be English, Spanish, etc. I had gone before when I was abroad last year, and ended up making friends with some of the students of Universita’ Roma Tre. During the summer, the language exchange moves out by the Tiber River in a sort of festival called TeverEstate. It was nice to go with classmates and see new Italian faces. During the rest of the week, I got to know my classmates better and we all had lunch together in a park near Largo Argentina after my second class. My first in-class exam will be next Tuesday over conjunctions and direct and indirect pronouns. Wish me luck!

Park View from Tuesday’s Lunch

In addition to the SLA, I’ve been working on an application for the Fulbright Fellowship Program. It has been a bit weird doing the application abroad with remote advisor meetings. It feels strange to me that I’m working on this application to go abroad while I am abroad, but I’ve been sure to balance my time so I can work on the application and have meetings but still complete my assignments and engage the city.

Another pleasant highlight of the week was meeting an old friend, Flora, to go out on Friday night. I had met her and three other Italian students at the Rec 23 Language exchange last year. The others were back home in Calabria for the summer, however. We went to a bar called Black Market in Monti, a very chic neighborhood just east of the Colosseum. Tonight (Saturday), I am meeting one of my classmates and his visiting college friend for karaoke!

“Ecotourism”

I like to think that there are two main groups of people who are bolstering the Icelandic Tourist industry: medievalists (like myself) and the “ecotourist” (well, I may be one of those as well). At least a third- and probably more- of the 45 students in the Modern Icelandic Summer School are medievalists here to improve their Old Norse-Icelandic language skills through the study of Modern Icelandic.  I haven’t asked the tourists on the street why exactly they chose to come to Iceland,  but I have the sinking feeling that it might not have much to do with medieval literature- though their hiking backpacks could very well be filled with books. As much as the History Channel’s Vikings may inspire some travelers, the reality is that Iceland’s incredible (ótrúlegt) landscape (landslag) is really what has sky-rocketed the Icelandic economy after its devastating crash in 2008.

View in Reykjavík

As I mentioned in my last post, the views of nature from Reykjavík itself can be jaw-droppingly exquisite.  But in order to get a more complete sense of what the Icelandic landscape is all about, you really have to get out of the city and either rent a car or take one of the organized tours which leave from Reykjavík (some of these are day trips, others for multiple days). As I’m here primarily to improve my Modern Icelandic (no small task!) I will not be able to see all of Iceland while I’m here, but I have made some small trips on the western and southern coasts. You barely have to drive 200 meters in any direction before you want to stop for a photo!

Last week I went on the “South Coast Tour,” which takes travelers to see some outstanding waterfalls (Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss), as well as one of the famous so-called “black sand” beaches (Reynisfjara).  My tour guide, an Icelandic woman named Ragna, explained that that 2010 volcanic eruption of Eyjafjallajökull (say that five times fast) really put Iceland’s otherworldly nature on the map.  The positive long-term consequences for the Icelandic economy have far out-weighed the immediate negative consequences of precluding air-traffic across Europe for six days (at least, for the Icelanders). Not only did Icelanders enjoy the many (unsuccessful) attempts of foreign media to pronounce the name of the volcano, but the country launched a tourism advertisement campaign that some Icelanders now deem too successful. The world was suddenly very aware of Iceland’s natural wonders.  As one of my instructors succinctly stated: “Iceland is currently ‘In’.”Some Icelanders are concerned that the busloads of tourists increase pollution and could potentially disrupt or even destroy the essence of the natural sites.  But Icelanders are also well aware that international interest in their sites could be a passing fad, and some are worried that another financial crisis will come when the tourists find another place to go.

Anyway, here are some of the favorite haunts of “ecotourists” on which I, too, have now left my carbon footprint.  Take a look and judge for yourself- do you think people will lose interest in Iceland anytime soon?

The “South Coast Tour”

First Stop:  Sólheimajökull (means something like “sun of the worlds glacier”).  You really get a sense of how big it is when you make out the tiny people along the side of the glacier!  This glacier is receding at an alarming rate due to climate change.              

Skógafoss (“Waterfall of forests”):  It’s hard to get an idea of just how enormous this waterfall is based on the pics, but try to see the tiny people climbing up the side of the waterfall along the path in the picture below.  And yes- lots of people camp and even hitchhike as they explore Iceland’s natural wonders!

Reynisfjara (“Beach of the Mountain Ash”): An exquisite black beach  It was very rainy and windy the day I was there, and the waves are known to be dangerous.

The beach is covered in small, black stones rather than sand.

Reynisdrangar (“Pillars of the Mountain Ash”): These basalt sea stacks are strikingly beautiful and otherworldly.  Our tour guide told us that they might be trolls, caught by the rays of the rising sun and turned to stone :). It’s hard to tell from the picture, but they are enormous.

Seljalandsfoss (“Waterfall of Seljaland”): You can actually walk behind this waterfall, but I couldn’t get a decent picture from behind it because the wind was blowing water in my face the whole time.  It was an awesome experience, though!                                                            

I got a little wet after passing through behind the waterfall!

Well, that’s plenty for now, but stay tuned for more about Iceland’s incredible nature and culture coming up soon!

 

 

 

Anna Fett Blog 3: “Trump Make Israel Great”?

American-backed lobbyist organization’s sign hung around the streets of Jerusalem for President Trump’s visit in May 2017

“Trump Make Israel Great”–This Trump-style slogan has made its way across the ocean to street signs paying homage to the new American president’s first visit to Jerusalem–albeit in slightly altered form from the U.S. version:”Make America Great Again”. Although Trump’s visit was in May, I still find the signs (paid for by a right-wing American-established evangelical organization) taped to lamp posts around the city; some signs now don ‘colorful’ graffiti altering the sign in more or less humorous or grotesque manners.

The hullabaloo surrounding whether the U.S. embassy would be moved to Jerusalem has subsided from general conversation since Trump signed a waiver in early June to delay any decision on moving it from Tel Aviv. However, there is still much speculation on whether the Trump administration is ‘pro-Israeli’ or not (and what that even means) and whether this administration has the potential to forge progress towards a two-state solution–despite Trump’s ambiguous comment back in February in a joint press briefing in Washington D.C.  with Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu that he would be “looking at two-state and one-state and [he likes] the one that both parties like.”

I have made an effort here to gauge both Israeli and Palestinian attitudes towards the Trump administration in comparison with past American administrations. I had the opportunity to attend a lecture last week in which both the ‘mainstream’ Israeli and Palestinian narratives were presented, respectively, by an Israeli rabbi and settler who works for the Israel Political Advocacy lobbyist group (which, according to him, seeks to target the U.S. Congress and White House) and a top translator, from Arabic into Hebrew, for the Palestinian Authority President Mahmoud Abbas. (Of course, two speakers cannot encapsulate the Israeli and Palestinian ‘sides’ of the story; understanding what Israelis and Palestinians ‘think’ requires listening to as many perspectives as possible, and there are many more than two mainstream opinions varying by age, gender, socioeconomic status, religious and ethnic background, and rural or urban environment, etc.)

In the Q&A, both speakers were asked to reflect on the role of international actors, especially the United States, in potentially resolving the conflict. Both agreed that international efforts must be serious and impartial, but they disagreed over the impact of past American administrations.

The Palestinian debater argued that too much onus has been put on Palestinians to acquiesce to unfair concessions in an effort to “prove” that they are committed to the peace process. Whereas, he argued, there has been no serious pressure on Israel with the exception of the George H.W. Bush administration, pointing to Secretary of State James Baker who, according to the Palestinian speaker, did put “real pressure” on Israel during the Gulf War. The Palestinian debater was willing, and believes the Palestinian Authority, the main Palestinian governmental body of the West Bank, is willing to work with the Trump administration towards a two-state peace solution.

In comparison, a Palestinian Christian friend of mine  from Jerusalem dissected the 2016 American election results in the following way: Hillary Clinton would have been “terrible” for the Palestinians because she was willing to agree to “anything” to get the support of the American Israeli lobby. On the other hand, Trump is also “greedy” and wants to accumulate personal wealth including “troubling dealings with Saudi Arabia”; however, according to my friend, Trump is less predictable than Clinton and thus could, potentially, bring refreshing change to re-jumpstart the peace process. In general, the Palestinians I have had contact with seem disillusioned with former President Obama–who “cared a lot but could not accomplish a lot”–and are now, to greater and lesser extents, hopeful that Trump can get the peace process going again.

A visual map of the complexity of achieving a two state-solution, just in and around Jerusalem. While Israel controls all of Jerusalem today, Palestinians argue that East Jerusalem should be part of the Palestinian state according to the 1967 borders. This map shows West and East Jerusalem. The different colored areas in East Jerusalem show Areas A, B, and C representing different levels of Palestinian and Israeli civilian and military control in different portions of the West Bank around the city. This map was hanging in one of my hotel rooms. [2011 UN Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs]
This point about Obama is interesting given the ‘mainstream’ Israeli interpretation of the impact of Obama’s administration. The Israeli settler, during the debate, argued that the Obama administration has put the most pressure on Israel to date than any president before him, including, the Israeli argued, some pressure on Israel by the George W. Bush administration. The Israel noted that Obama forced Israel into a 10 month settlement building moratorium and that, for the first time in December 2016, the U.S. abstained in a vote, thereby not blocking a United Nations Resolution declaring Israeli settlements illegal. While he did not reflect at length on the new Trump administration, it was clear that he was glad for the Obama administration at least to be over.

Both the Israeli and Palestinian representatives in the debate were disappointed with the Obama administration for different reasons and interested to see what the Trump administration can bring to the mediating ‘table’ for different reasons. What is clear is that just as the American Trump slogan does not translate seamlessly onto posters here in the streets of Jerusalem, nor do American politics with our divisions between Democrats and Republicans translate easily onto Israeli and Palestinian interpretations of American presidents and their foreign policies in this region.

Cologne Part 1: My Home in Germany

Now that I have been in Cologne for a couple of weeks, I wanted to reflect on one of my favorite aspects of my experience so far: my “home” in Cologne. Though my educational experience is centered in the classroom, home life has been important to both my learning of the German language and my engagement in the local culture.

The Rhine River runs right through the middle of Cologne, North to South, and divides the city into two halves: the “Rechte Seite des Rheins” and the “Linke Seite des Rheins.” Though it’s all one city, some residents like to argue that there’s a slightly different feel to each side, and there’s a friendly sort of rivalry between the two halves of the city.

For the first two weeks in Cologne, I stayed with a host family on the right side of the Rhine. They were great in so many ways! We had breakfast and dinner together every day, and not only was my host dad’s home cooking delicious and authentically German, but our mealtime conversations were informative, entertaining, and auf Deutschnatürlich! This extra, constant immersion in the language has improved my conversation abilities and confidence. I also learned about the history of Cologne through their eyes, and got tips on cool places and events to check out in the city.

The Band from Dünnwalder Frühling

One such event was Dünnwalder Frühling, or “Dünnwald Spring,” a street festival-like event just a few blocks from the house! The event was attended by the surrounding neighborhoods and included a live band, games for kids, food, and tents featuring local businesses. I went with my family for the afternoon and enjoyed the taste of local culture!

For the past few days, I have been living on the left side of the Rhine in a different house. This time, I’m renting a room on the second floor, with three other students living on the floor as well, from Mongolia, Armenia, and Germany. It’s a new and unique experience to be able to interact with young people of different backgrounds beyond just Germans. Though we all speak different languages, we primarily communicate in German, again providing constant opportunity to improve even outside of the classroom.

The owner of the house and his brother, both native Kölners, are both extremely hospitable and interact with me on a regular basis as well. After moving in here over the weekend, Klaus invited me to go to an open-air museum with his wife and some friends for the day. The museum was acres large and depicted life as it would have been here centuries ago, complete with real farm animals (that’s a goat with me!) and oven-baked bread from freshly horse-mill grinded wheat! Moreover, it was great to spend the entire day communicating in German and getting to know Klaus and his friends. It’s an experience I won’t forget.

Klaus & I at the open-air museum

July 14th – Han River Cruise

This week, we went to on a cruise on the Han River, one of the most prominent rivers in Korea that serves as a major water source for over 12 million people. It was beautiful because it was in the evening and the view of the city was nice from the water. When I was very very young, I remember flying kites around the Han River with my dad. I hadn’t been there since I was 4 or 5 years old, so it brought back great memories of my childhood. The cruise definitely exceeded my expectations because not only was the view fantastic but the food was also amazing.

What I Like (And Not So Like) About the Japanese Language

Princeton in Ishikawa (PII) is the language program I study at. We convene every morning of weekdays for three hours and cover two years’ Notre Dame Japanese class in the two months. That is to say, this is a pretty intense and challenging program.

Yet I am grateful because this program expands the limit of my Japanese learning pace and I for sure see my improvements on a daily basis. It also has many quick-minded Japanese learners from the best universities in the U.S. Among the 44 students this year, 14 are from Princeton, 7 from Yale, 7 from Harvard, and one or two from a number of other prominent schools.

Besides practicing Japanese with these talented friends (we have to follow a strict “Japanese only” rule), I also share thoughts on the Japanese language in general – what we like about it, and what not so much. Presented below are some of the (temporal and superficial) thoughts based on our limited understanding of Japanese.

One of the most distinct characteristics of Japanese is having three sets of writing systems. While English has alphabetical vocabularies only, Japanese has kanji (Chinese characters), Hiragana and Katakana (for words of English origins). The combination of the three, in my opinion, speeds up the reading pace and makes the language more efficient. While kanjis, mostly made up of nouns, adjs and verbs, straightforwardly provide concrete information, hiragana logically connects such information. Katakana, on the other hand, gives out information of nouns with a western origin. After reaching a certain level of proficiency, just by scanning through the texts, one can easily tell its general idea without failing to grasp its logical flows.

However, Japanese grammar, especially verb conjugations, is more complicated than English and Chinese. In English and Chinese, if we want to make a command using “must,” we simply add the word”must” in between the subject and verb in a sentence. However, in Japanese, we need to change the form of the last letter of the verb into the one with the same consonant sound but the first vowel sound and then add “なければならない.” Conjugations as such trouble me, because they are like math functions where you have to follow steps 1, 2, 3 to express whatever additional emotion you want to add to your statement.

In daily conversations, I found it hard to be consistent with the kind of expressions I use with people. Let me explain this. In Japanese, there are sets of expressions with varied formality. Among close friends and family members, people normally use casual forms, but when talking to superiors or those we know little of, people use polite forms. Sometimes when we want to show extra respect, honorific forms and humble forms are the options, and in specific settings like department stores and restaurants, store staff uses the polite form which is a little different from all above. That is being said, in Japan, I am not only made aware of the relationship I have with others, but also have to show my acknowledgment of the kind of relationship through my choice of words and expressions. It creates difficulties and probably strengthens societal hierarchy. But just like people wearing different clothes on different occasions, having different forms of expressions allows one to show respect or intimacy.

My Chinese background gives me a considerable advantage because I could understand the kanjis without any barrier, but sometimes the meanings of the words appall me. At this moment, I haven’t really looked into how the words were formed, or if their meanings have evolved over time, but some are simply interesting to talk about. For example, the word husband (主人) also means “a master” or “an employer,” while the word for wife (奥さん)involves 奥 which means “the inner part, the back.” Do these words convey gender expectations and roles? Do people internalize the connotations these words have? I don’t know. But I could also find similar examples in many other languages in the world.

In general, I enjoy learning Japanese and see all the challenges in a much more favorable light than math problems. However, I still hesitated when writing some critical comments (even though they are not critical at all), because I have always feared criticisms. I fear people criticizing me because there’s always the possibility that any not-positive remark might be regarded as “politically-incorrect.” But thinking about it, without truly learning Japanese, I would have never been able to write some of my and my friends’ thoughts on this matter. On top of that, I should probably not censor my own ideas derived from good intentions. If people disagree, then I create an opportunity for discussions. Nothing will be solved if everyone is a deliberative, not a participatory citizen. The combination of the two renders greater chance for this society to be better.

 

Welcome to Siena! Week 1, 6/18-6/25

Ciao from Siena! Siena is smaller than some of the more well-known cities in Italy, and is not heavy with tourism, which makes it the perfect place to practice Italian in a genuine setting. After a long flight with a layover, and my first try at practicing Italian in Italy when I asked a lady at the Florence train station where to buy a ticket, I arrived Sunday morning to the apartment I’m staying in for the duration of my trip, which is located very centrally in the city: a 30 second walk from the Piazza del Campo, the city’s main square, and the Duomo, the city’s cathedral. I was greeted with this beautiful view out of my apartment window:

I then explored around the city and was immediately treated to a very unique piece of Siena-specific culture, a parade from a contrada. Contrade, as I later learned in my culture class at the Dante Alighieri Institute where I take language and culture classes each day, are 17 city wards that comprise Siena’s historical center. Each contrada, represented by a singular animal or symbol and colors that also constitute their coat of arms and historical dress, participates in historic displays of pride, rivalries and competition, dinners and gatherings, and other cultural events in the time leading up to the Palio, their signature horse race broadcast throughout all of Italy and held in the Piazza. But more on the Palio later. 😉

Later that night, I had my first dinner in Italy and met the rest of the students in my culture class during my stay here. I tried Tuscan meats and cheeses, and pici con caccio e pepe, a Siena specialty of thick pasta with cheese and pepper. It was delicious.

The next day, I attended my first language course, taught entirely in Italian from 9:10-1:00 each day. The staff at the school were very welcoming, and I immediately felt supported in my quest to improve my Italian, a language I’ve taken throughout high school and for one year of college now. I worked on getting more comfortable with using the subjunctive tense in conversation, and I learned several useful vocabulary words. Ordering pizza for lunch from a small shop near the school was the perfect opportunity for me to practice ordering food in Italian, and it went quite well.

In the afternoon, I attended my culture class, and during the duration of the week I toured the Torre contrada, climbed to the top of Palazzo Pubblico, located in the Piazza del Campo and Siena’s major civil building, viewed several impressive works of art, and went to the archaeological museum at Santa Maria della Scala, featuring Etruscan artifacts. That Saturday, to take a break from all my sight-seeing and language-learning, I went to the Castiglione della Pescaia, a beautiful seaside town with a lovely beach. It was a very busy but very rewarding week, and I felt myself starting to fall in love with Siena.

 

Greetings from Tokyo

こんにちは みんなさん、

I just had my first week of classes at ICU! Though it seems like forever ago, it was only a week ago that I stepped off of my flight into Haneda airport (the better airport in my limited opinion). Even though the airport is relatively easy to navigate and access, I ran into my first problem when I had to locate the airport post office to pick up a package. I didn’t know where it was, and had troubled asking for where it was with my jet-lagged mind. For the life of me, I could not remember the word in Japanese for post office (郵便局 yuubinkyoku for those curious). It was a simple word that I had heard in class a million times, but when it came to the time when I actually needed it, it escaped my mind. I came to realized the obvious that conversations in a language classroom setting is tremendously different from the everyday interactions. In class, I could speak in set phrases and had time to think about what I was saying. However, in real life Japanese conversation as in other languages conversation, everyone has a different speech pattern and the flow of the conversation is also important to keep in mind. I didn’t know how much I rely on English in my everyday life until it was absent. I also quickly realized the extent of my limited Japanese skill, and am resolve to study harder this summer to, at the very least, be able to hold a short conversation with the locals around me.

On the hand, Tokyo is truly a city well accustomed to tourists. Before I came to Japan, I was super nervous about navigating the terrifying and convoluted-seeming train system in Tokyo. However, now that I’m here, I can say that I really like the public transportation they have here. I love how the train could take you almost anywhere in the city, with clear signs and labels in both Japanese and English that is easy to navigate.

I also really love how pretty ICU is. This campus is probably not the typical Japanese college campus as it was modeled more like an American campus, but I’m glad for the similarities.