Mitchell, Samuel

Name: Samuel Mitchell
E-mail: smitche8@nd.edu
Location of Study: Muscat, Oman
Program of Study: World Learning Oman Center
Sponsors: Mark Gallogly & Lise Strickler

 


A brief personal bio:

Hey everyone! My name is Sam Mitchell and I am a junior double majoring in Arabic Studies & Peace Studies. I’ve studied Arabic since first enrolling as a freshman, and I consider it among my most life changing opportunties. Not only have I been able to become proficient in a language that is so widely spoken, Arabic is synonmous with a region of the world that demands our attention for its arts, beauty, innovation, and politics — good and bad. I am fortunate enough to have traveled three previous times to the Middle East, and I am very much looking forward to returning to Oman in order to continue both my language development, but also my personal development, as well.

Why this summer language abroad opportunity is important to me:

This SLA Grant facilitates something that not every university openly offers its students: the opportunity to enrich their language and cultural experiences by living abroad in an appropriate foreign country. As an Arabist, I take pride in my language skills and always look to enhance them. My 5-year goal after graduation is to not only consider my skills advanced, but refined enough to “fluently” change between reading, writing and speaking without lacking confidence. As someone who wishes to make a career in the Middle East, my language skills will not only aid in obtaining a job, but they will also enrich my career experience.

What I hope to achieve as a result of this summer study abroad experience:

With my SLA Grant, I hope to pick up where I left off last summer. I received a scholarship from the Omani government as a part of their advocacy for cultural exchange between Oman and the US. This SALAAM scholarship allowed us to participate in language study at the World Learning Center Oman (WLCo), in addition to live with an Omani homestay family.  This summer, I look to deepen my experience.  Having already spent a considerable amount of time living in the Gulf, I am comfortable enough with my surroudings to really explore my environment. Of course, sharpening my language abilities will be a priority while abroad. I am equally fortunate to be able to live with the same host family from last summer, and receive language instruction from my favorite professors from WLC. The comfort level that all parties have with each other will be critical in fostering rapid advancement of language skill.  But the trip to Oman is about so much more than simply acquiring language skills. I have two host brothers this summer, Ahmed and Rashid, who are now 24 and 22, respectively. They’re great guys! I loved hanging out with them last summer, and I look forward to having them include me in all sorts of family activities (i.e. meals, reunions, even weddings!). Maybe they can even teach me to be a better futbol player!  What I look forward to most this summer is really getting to know the Omani person — his heritage, his life, his hopes and dreams. This will involve sitting down at the many cafes and traversing Muscat’s souqs  in order to get a real insight into Omani culture. Fortunately, this summer I have the confidence to do this!

My specific learning goals for language and intercultural learning this summer:

  1. At the end of the summer, I will be able to participate in advanced Arabic discussion with native speakers on academic and political topics such as political theory, foreign policy and ethics.
  2. At the end of the summer, I will be able to read an Arabic newspaper and communicate an advanced interpretation of the article itself, as well as form a well crafted opinion on the subject matter.
  3.  At the end of the summer, I will be able to attain an advanced score on the Oral Proficiency Interview, and be comfortable enough interviewing for a job in Arabic.

My plan for maximizing my international language learning experience:

As soon as I arrive in Oman, I will immediately precede to my host family’s house where I expect a fantastic reunion with the whole family!   And then it’s right off to work in the morning. I am going to meet the directors of WLC in order to plan out a program specifically tailored to my needs. My first focus will be on improving my speaking skills, which is the weakest of my skill sets.  My typical day will include 5 hours of classroom instruction, in addition to 2.5 hours of “peer facilitator” time in which all students simply converse about anything and everything with Omani students of our own age.  In addition to my school work, I anticipate spending a lot of time in mainstream Muscat so that I may absorb both language and culture.

Reflective Journal Entry 1: 

Well, I have arrived in Oman after a long flight from my study abroad location in Athens, Greece! Coming here was a VERY quick turn around from what I had been doing in Greece. There was basically no time to decompress about what happened to me in the past 5 months, and as I bade farewell to all of my terrific friends heading back to the US, I knew I had a very different flight to catch. But that’s all a part of the adventure! Being back in Oman feels like home — I even missed the oppressive heat (it’s already 37 C here!) I flew through Doha, Qatar en route to Muscat, and I started using my Arabic immediately. It’s strange… this is the longest I’ve gone in my college career without being exposed to formal Arabic training, so I must admit that I am rusty. This is particularly true of my speaking skills, but even just being back in the Middle East for 8 hours or so I’ve noticed myself becoming more comfortable. For me, this is what this entire summer will be about: overcoming whatever trepidation I have left and just have the confidence to speak Arabic. Right now, my program put me up in a hotel, but that’s only temporary. I’m heading to the center tomorrow to hash out the details of my personalized program. I’m really looking forward to seeing all of the familiar faces, and jumping right back into it. I don’t know if I move in with my host family tomorrow, but if it’s not Sunday then definitely by Monday. This is going to be a great reunion. Time for bed though! I’m jetlagged as all hell after such a draining (but amazing) semester in Greece, and then the flight here to Muscat. I’m really looking forward to my time here, and I know I’ll have lots to report on my language skills!

Reflective Journal Entry 2:

Hey everyone! Well, I have been in Oman for just about exactly a week now and how the time has passed! After being brought to a hotel the first night, one of the administrators from my Arabic institute, Judi Garfinkel, picked me up the next morning and together we went to the language center (renamed Center for International Learning, CIL). There, I reconnected with some of my favorite people in Oman! It was great seeing everyone again, and really enjoyed catching up with some people I hadn’t spoken with for several months. Alhamduallah, everyone is doing well!

We got right down to business. I met with the director of CIL, Larry Brown, to talk about my summer plans. Everyone at CIL is very happy to have me back, and I am happy to say that we worked together to design a unique program for me meant to hone my strengths and develop my weaknesses. My daily schedule (Saturday – Wednesday) is divided into 4 parts. From 8-930, I have a grammar class. While most of this is review for me, I can’t tell you how (and fellow Arabists can attest) important it is to know Arabic grammar — much more so than English grammar. Arabic derives all of its meaning based on cases, semantics and syntax, and while a lot of Arabic grammar may seem trivial, it is deceptively tricky (particularly cases, which we do not have in English). Arabic is a wonderfully expressive language, and this is due to its grammar. You don’t know the language unless you understand its grammar. From 1000-1130, I have a personal Peer Facilitator (PF) session with a 22 year old Omani girl named Rahmah. This is an integral part of my day because I have made the focus of my summer studies on speaking. In essence, I have the opportunity to talk about any subject in the world with an Omani my same age. Naturally, the conversation is quite casual, but it is immensely helpful. After that, I have a Media Arabic class from 1200-130. This class affords me the chance to engage with the Arabic media in a mostly conversational manner. Meaning, we watch a lot of Al-Jazeera, read from Arabic newspapers, and discuss current issues in Arabic. This class not only keeps me informed about world events, it challenges me to think critically about real world happenings in Arabic. It’s stressful, but helpful. Finally, from 130-430 I have to do as I wish. I am able to continue my PF session, but I’m mostly working with CIL to plan excursions and overnight trips around Oman. Over all, it is a very full day! It’s a great mix of everything I need in order to improve my Arabic.

Of course, I was also reunited with my host family on my second day! This was a fantastic reunion. Currently, my host father is in Zanzibar visiting family and friends, and will be there for about a month. However, my two host brothers, Ahmed and Rashid, are both in house, in addition to their stepmother and a few younger children. I usually hang out with the two older brothers because we are the same age. I really enjoy spending time with them and their friends, and it affords me a great chance to work on my Omani Arabic!

Speaking of which, I wanted to make one of my journal entries about Omani slang. I will be honest, I am HORRIBLE at understanding the dialect here. You see, I study Fusha Arabic, which is the formal Arabic used in the government, in schools, in the media, etc. The vast majority of Arabs, while they all know Fusha, do not use it in daily conversation. In fact, when I speak to a lot of Arabs in the Gulf, sometimes I get strange looks because they think I’m being overly formal! Oh well, I usually say. Anyways, I’m trying my best to pick up on the colloquialisms, but it’s difficult. This week, I learned two words that convey elements of surprise: “Dokum” and “Wahbooieeh!”. My host brothers taught me these words, and I asked one of my PFs, Rahmah, and my host stepmother (I love the irony), mid 40s, if they A) use them, B) what they think of them, C) are they mainstream? and D) are they appropriate?

To begin, “Dokum” roughly translates to “what the hell?” Automatically, you might surmise who in Omani society might use this phrase. My host brothers love it because, well, they’re effectively teenage boys at heart. It’s a common phrase and used in the same context as we might use its English equivalent. If you know anything about Omani culture, you will laugh at both Rahmah’s and my host stepmother’s reactions to the word. Women act quite conservatively in Omani culture. Assuredly, I caused no offense and I asked my host brothers to make sure of this before I asked each of them. Both Rahmah and my host mom were well familiar with the phrase. However, neither one of them use it often — but both admitted to slipping sometimes. In essence, they stated that it is inappropriate to use in most contexts, just as a respectable person in the US would say about cursing in general. The cultural implications are obvious: men all around the world have a tendency to be more loose with their tongues than women! (although not always the case). I reserve this phrase for my host brothers.

The second phrase, “Wahbooieeh!” is my favorite. It literally translates to “Oh my father!”. The word is hilarious to hear, because you can’t just say “wahbooieeh…”, but you have to say “Wahbooieeh!!”. I asked the same women about the phrase. They laughed very hard! It is a very common phrase in Omani society, because it marks a natural response to something that surprises you. For instance, if a little firecracker unexpectedly pops in front of you, an Omani might naturally say this. Or, in more contexts, an Omani might say the phrase if they hear something that is surprising or unexpected in conversation. There is nothing inappropriate about the phrase, and both women admit to using it on the daily basis. This is a phrase for all ages.

Well, that’s all for now. I’m off to hang out with my host bros and, inshahallah, pick up on some more Omani Arabic!

 

Reflective Journal Entry 3:

Salaamu Alaykum, ya Asdiqaa-e!

I continue to do very well here in Muscat! My daily schedule has finally settled down at the center — I have 3 classes and a 2 hour long Peer Facilitator (PF) session Saturday – Wednesday. The pace is quick, and I’m happy for that. I find that my skills have returned to me, and I continue to progress every day. I am much more aware of my speaking abilities, and my vocab continues to grow all the time. One thing I must work on is listening. For some reason, I tend to tune out when people talk to me. Maybe I have ADD, but it’s much more likely that I just need to put mind over matter and focus. Focusing is crucial to language acquisition.

My homestay experience also continues to go well! My host brothers, Ahmed and Rashid, are closer than ever. I usually hang out with their friends while I attempt to understand Omani Arabic. It’s an uphill battle, for sure. I recently saw MIB3 with them — I thought the movie was very entertaining! Reflecting a small victory, I found that I was able to read the Arabic subtitles pretty well (the movie was obviously in English). However, this is the third movie I have seen in Oman, and the fifth in the Middle East — Let me just say this… Arab etiquette in movies is VERY different than Western behavior. It is not at all uncommon to witness Arabs picking up their cell phones and having lengthy phone conversations. I won’t lie, it’s slightly infuriating. I get the last laugh though, quite literally, because I usually am the only one in the theatre who understands Western cultural references. Sam: 1 Annoying Crowd: 0

So yeah, day to day life has been great. I consider myself to be an advanced student, I’m enjoying my time, and I’m even helping CIL plan their excursions around Oman. This is most exciting! They begin this weekend with a FIFA Qualifier match between Oman and Australia, in addition to an all day Muscat City Tour, which I am supervising. The trips get more and more interesting as the summer goes on, with planned outings to go snorkeling, wadi hiking, bedouin camping and much, much more! I’m very much looking forward to my weekends.

This week, I decided to talk with some Omanis who represent minority groups within Oman. First, I interviewed my host brother Ahmed about his Zanzibari ethnic background. Oman used to be a large empire from the 17th to mid 19th centuries. One of its prized possessions was Zanzibar, now a semi-autonomous region under the umbrella of Tanzania. Oman and Zanzibar enjoyed a historically beneficial relationship, save for periods of dispute following deaths of Sultans. Because of this, there is a legacy of ethnically African Omanis currently living in the country — vice versa as well, they speak Arabic on Zanzibar. My host family is almost entirely of African descent, as are roughly 25% of Omani citizens. I was curious about how Zanzibari Omanis view themselves, and how they are viewed, by ethnically Arab Omanis due to the US’s unfortunate history of racism towards Africans. I really didn’t know what to expect — If such racism is, or was ever, prevalent in this part of the world. The answer? He said absolutely not. He has never had to deal with any sort of targeting because he is black. According to him, the relationship between the two countries is so old, and slavery so long eradicated, that there are no issues whatsoever. He, and everyone else in Oman, simply considers ethnically Zanzibari families to be Omani. The only difference is that maybe Swahili is spoken in their homes, in addition to Arabic. Arabic, however, being the national language, is spoken by all Zanzibaris.

The Omani population is roughly 75% Ibadi Muslim. Ibadi Islam is a direct derivative of the rebel Kharijite sects of the mid to late 7th century. In fact, it is the only remaining Kharijite sect and Oman is the only Muslim country in the world that represents any sort of sizeable Ibadi population. Ibadi Islam is very much like Sunni Islam — this is given reflected in the fact that Ibadis and Sunnis often pray in the same mosques. There is a very small Shiite population in Oman. So naturally, I chose to interview one of the PFs at CIL, Muhammad, about his life as a Shiite Muslim in Oman. First, there is only one Shiite mosque located in Muscat, and that can be found in Muttrah, one of larger and more commercial districts within the city. He travels to this mosque everyday along with much of the Omani Shiite population. This is a good point to make — most Omani Shiites live in Muscat. While there are no prohibitions or discriminating laws levied against Shiites in Oman, Muhammad did say that the Shiite religion is often looked upon with a raised eyebrow. Simply put, it is quite different from Sunni and Ibadi Islam, and some practices are viewed with shoulder shrugs and confusion. It certainly isnt a malevolent relationship, not would anybody classify Shiites as second class citizens in Oman, but it is a marked difference that exists. Muhammad is proud to be a Shiite, and he is just as proud to be an Omani. Before this interview, I had never spoken to a Shiite about their experiences living in Oman. I am certainly happy to have talked with him about this subject. If I could compare it to anything in the US, it might be similar to a Baptist or Mormon living in a Catholic area. While this is a poor comparison, it should illustrate the greater point.

That’s all for now! I have 3 more days this week, those excursion dates, and then I’m heading to Dubai with some of my good American friends who work in Salalah. I’m really looking forward to being there! It’s important to be able to travel around the Gulf in order to understand the big picture of this area.

 

Reflective Journal Entry 4:

Salaamu Alaykum, ya Asdiqaa-e!

I continue to do very well here in Muscat! My daily schedule has finally settled down at the center — I have 3 classes and a 2 hour long Peer Facilitator (PF) session Saturday – Wednesday. The pace is quick, and I’m happy for that. I find that my skills have returned to me, and I continue to progress every day. I am much more aware of my speaking abilities, and my vocab continues to grow all the time. One thing I must work on is listening. For some reason, I tend to tune out when people talk to me. Maybe I have ADD, but it’s much more likely that I just need to put mind over matter and focus. Focusing is crucial to language acquisition.

My homestay experience also continues to go well! My host brothers, Ahmed and Rashid, are closer than ever. I usually hang out with their friends while I attempt to understand Omani Arabic. It’s an uphill battle, for sure. I recently saw MIB3 with them — I thought the movie was very entertaining! Reflecting a small victory, I found that I was able to read the Arabic subtitles pretty well (the movie was obviously in English). However, this is the third movie I have seen in Oman, and the fifth in the Middle East — Let me just say this… Arab etiquette in movies is VERY different than Western behavior. It is not at all uncommon to witness Arabs picking up their cell phones and having lengthy phone conversations. I won’t lie, it’s slightly infuriating. I get the last laugh though, quite literally, because I usually am the only one in the theatre who understands Western cultural references. Sam: 1 Annoying Crowd: 0

So yeah, day to day life has been great. I consider myself to be an advanced student, I’m enjoying my time, and I’m even helping CIL plan their excursions around Oman. This is most exciting! They begin this weekend with a FIFA Qualifier match between Oman and Australia, in addition to an all day Muscat City Tour, which I am supervising. The trips get more and more interesting as the summer goes on, with planned outings to go snorkeling, wadi hiking, bedouin camping and much, much more! I’m very much looking forward to my weekends.

This week, I decided to talk with some Omanis who represent minority groups within Oman. First, I interviewed my host brother Ahmed about his Zanzibari ethnic background. Oman used to be a large empire from the 17th to mid 19th centuries. One of its prized possessions was Zanzibar, now a semi-autonomous region under the umbrella of Tanzania. Oman and Zanzibar enjoyed a historically beneficial relationship, save for periods of dispute following deaths of Sultans. Because of this, there is a legacy of ethnically African Omanis currently living in the country — vice versa as well, they speak Arabic on Zanzibar. My host family is almost entirely of African descent, as are roughly 25% of Omani citizens. I was curious about how Zanzibari Omanis view themselves, and how they are viewed, by ethnically Arab Omanis due to the US’s unfortunate history of racism towards Africans. I really didn’t know what to expect — If such racism is, or was ever, prevalent in this part of the world. The answer? He said absolutely not. He has never had to deal with any sort of targeting because he is black. According to him, the relationship between the two countries is so old, and slavery so long eradicated, that there are no issues whatsoever. He, and everyone else in Oman, simply considers ethnically Zanzibari families to be Omani. The only difference is that maybe Swahili is spoken in their homes, in addition to Arabic. Arabic, however, being the national language, is spoken by all Zanzibaris.

The Omani population is roughly 75% Ibadi Muslim. Ibadi Islam is a direct derivative of the rebel Kharijite sects of the mid to late 7th century. In fact, it is the only remaining Kharijite sect and Oman is the only Muslim country in the world that represents any sort of sizeable Ibadi population. Ibadi Islam is very much like Sunni Islam — this is given reflected in the fact that Ibadis and Sunnis often pray in the same mosques. There is a very small Shiite population in Oman. So naturally, I chose to interview one of the PFs at CIL, Muhammad, about his life as a Shiite Muslim in Oman. First, there is only one Shiite mosque located in Muscat, and that can be found in Muttrah, one of larger and more commercial districts within the city. He travels to this mosque everyday along with much of the Omani Shiite population. This is a good point to make — most Omani Shiites live in Muscat. While there are no prohibitions or discriminating laws levied against Shiites in Oman, Muhammad did say that the Shiite religion is often looked upon with a raised eyebrow. Simply put, it is quite different from Sunni and Ibadi Islam, and some practices are viewed with shoulder shrugs and confusion. It certainly isnt a malevolent relationship, not would anybody classify Shiites as second class citizens in Oman, but it is a marked difference that exists. Muhammad is proud to be a Shiite, and he is just as proud to be an Omani. Before this interview, I had never spoken to a Shiite about their experiences living in Oman. I am certainly happy to have talked with him about this subject. If I could compare it to anything in the US, it might be similar to a Baptist or Mormon living in a Catholic area. While this is a poor comparison, it should illustrate the greater point.

That’s all for now! I have 3 more days this week, those excursion dates, and then I’m heading to Dubai with some of my good American friends who work in Salalah. I’m really looking forward to being there! It’s important to be able to travel around the Gulf in order to understand the big picture of this area.

 

Reflective Journal Entry 5:

Hey everyone! It’s hard to believe that I only have 30 days left on this grand Odyssey I set out upon back in January. I have traveled across so many countries and experienced something that many people might consider to be once in a life time. I agree with this assessment, but if these soon to be 7.5 months have proven me anything, it’s that I am capable of living abroad from the US for an extended period of time. I feel that I will make an excellent ex-pat should I choose to live and work outside of the US. Larry and Judi have offered me the chance to stay until August. While I certainly do miss my friends and family, it will be hard pressed to get me on a plane on July 10th back to the US when I have an offer to stay abroad. However, I will likely decline this not due to a lack of mental fortitude, but because I truly believe I have had a much more unique study abroad experience than the majority of ND students. I need to go home, share these stories, strengthen myself from time with friends and family before embarking upon the most challenging (although most fun!) senior year. I’m made to live abroad if that is my choice, but right now, I am fatigued after my travels, which have included 11 countries, Greek islands and travel around Greece itself. Perhaps if it wasn’t senior year coming up, when my attention must be turned to the LSAT, fellowships, my senior thesis, etc — all over the course of this same summer — I would remain here until August. But alas, I have responsibilities to myself and to my family to succeed this year. However, most pressingly, I have many accomplishments I have yet to meet here in Oman, so I need to finish this grant period strong and keep priority of things. Yalla, Yalla!

Speaking of traveling, I am happy to report that I have recently returned from a long weekend in Dubai! I did many of the touristy things that might be expected of a bro-trip to Dubai. Without doubt, Dubai is a city without parallel. I’ve been to many of the world’s sprawling metropolises, I’ve been to many of the world’s wealthiest cities and I’ve seen some amazing architecture and examples of triumphant human achievement. Dubai, while not my favorite city in the world, is the one that I was most ostentatiously impressed with, and I do count it in my Top 5 list. Without doubt, though, it is my favorite city in the Middle East after my previous explorations in North Africa, Turkey and the rest of the Gulf. Soon, inshahallah, I will make it to the Levant and Egypt to compare, but even then I think Dubai will take the cake. Beyond my touristy inclinations, I got a beat on its pulse, and it certainly seems like the type of place a man can learn to live and work.

Having visited Dubai, I think it will provide a nice cornerstone for this week’s topic on major social issues within the region in which I live. Here is the issue: The Gulf region, despite its vast holds of natural gas, minerals and, of course, oil, is a highly conservative. In many places, conservatism is simply another word for traditional. Oman is a fantastic example of this truth. Since the 1970′s, His Majesty Sultan Qaboos has single handily transformed his nation from Dark Age stagnancy to a country that has witnessed extremely rapid commercial, educational, infrastructural and personal progress. Quite simply, the Oman of now does not resemble the Oman of Sultan Qaboos’ father and father before him. However, the Sultan has made tremendous strides in trying to preserve both Oman’s ancient and post-Portuguese era culture and history — just not its inefficiencies and isolationist tendencies! Many of Oman’s tourist destinations (which grow increasingly popular, especially among Europeans) are geared towards including the preservations of old Omani society. While the country continously becomes more and more developed from the Western perspective, nobody can make a claim that Oman is growing too fast or abandoning its cultural morals for consumerist growth. It is a nation that knows A) what success it seeks for the future; B) what the country needs to develop in order to achieve these goals; and C) it is important to maintain a hold on Oman’s history, both for practical and personal reasons. This latter point provides substance for the nation, and an opportunity to offer a wholly unique tourist experience in order to make money for further development.

Dubai, on the other hand, is the epitome of consumer excess. I love walking around the Dubai mall area because it is the microcosm (if a microcosm can be as large as that mall!) of what Dubai, and by extension, Abu Dhabi and some of the other Emirates, have become. Oil is the name of the game in the UAE — it was found in the early 1960s and has provided the Emirates of Dubai and Abu Dhabi with an ostensibly endless supply of cash. Because of this black gold, areas like Dubai have been able to develop at unprecedented rates — spending billions and billions on infrastructure and business. This boon produced million and billionaires like they grew on trees, and for this reason, these Emirates are among the world’s wealthiest areas. Dubai, without a doubt, is the flagship of what oil can do to a city. No doubt, it is the capital of the Gulf. Ironically, as people get richer, there is a surprisingly scant amount of Arabs who call Dubai their home — only 15% with a large percentage being Western ex-pats who live and work for a profit, and South Asians to staff the city.

But what about Emirate history and society? This would likewise be a great question to pose to any citizen of Dubai or Abu Dhabi. Why? Because Emirate history and cultural society do not exist, especially at the state of preservation of a nation like Oman. The Emirates were nothing before oil. Dubai and Abu Dhabi were the hubs of bustling trade, yes, and yes, there were very rich merchants who were close with the ruling Sheiks, but in essence, the Emirates do not have any sort of preserved history in their world today. This a shame, there is a very rich history of bedouins, commerce, and politics hidden beneath those metropolitan deserts. And while you can find much of these things in museums, they are largely subjugated to the big money maker that is Western consumerism. As one Western ex-past told me upon hearing that I may have been interested in the Dubai museum, “What? Why the hell would you want to go there? Ferrari World is just 25 minutes away… and have you ate at the Burj?” **Sigh** Yes, I never made it to that museum due to a realignment in my priorities.

So here’s the question about Dubai: is it good for a traditionally conservative region? Does the advent of such staunch consumerism deny the existence of a wholly “Emirate or Dubai” society. I asked three different people this question: An Emirate from Dubai, a Pakistani cab driver in Dubai, and an Omani friend from CIL.

The Emirate I asked was exceedingly wealthy just like many of his Arab counterparts. He was in the contracting business — meaning he serves as a liason between other companies in an attempt to solidify new building, drilling and other business contracts. I asked him what he thought about Dubai and he said, “That Dubai, like New York, is the capital of something fantastic” and “a city built upon the success of oil, yes, but one that will sustain itself as the economic center of the entire Middle East.” I asked him if he felt hollow without any real access to his Emirate’s past. He smiled and said, “I am Emirate. That is what I need to know. Children learn about the Emirates pre-oil and discover their bedouin past in school. These eras shaped our fathers and grandfathers, and they shape us, as well. However, they do not reflect today’s standard, and such history is not unique to us because it is a shared Arab history of the entire peninsula. This is the Dubai of today and tomorrow, and this is wholly unique.”

On my way to partake in one of Dubai’s most ridiculously absurd, while altogether amazingly fun, consumerist attractions, Ski Dubai at the Mall of the Emirates, I asked my cab driver for some thoughts on Dubai. His name was Abdullah and lived in Dubai for 5 years. Originally from Pakistan, Abdullah returns home to Lahor for 2 months every winter. He said he came to Dubai for a few reasons including greater personal freedoms, personal safety and financial opportunities. “There are just more opportunities here in Dubai than in Pakistan — especially given how dangerous the country can be. I don’t make a whole lot of money driving this cab, but it’s much more than I would make in Lahor. I live modestly here, and enjoy this city that has no rival on earth.” Of course, I didn’t want to tell him to his face that he and his ex-pat cohorts were cheap labor for rich men. Let’s be honest, he probably knew that, and was probably comfortable with the fact that he was supporting his family back in Pakistan. This, of course, is not just a phenomenon in the UAE, but across the entire Gulf — migrant labor. When you have migrants who outnumber the local ethnic population, one wonders how that Arab identity can ever hope to be maintained.

Finally, upon arrival back in Oman, I asked my friend Hayan about his thoughts on Dubai. Hayan is an Omani, of course, who has witnessed his country grow at a sustained rate. He went to school in Nizwa, which is located about 90 minutes south of Muscat — an area of considerable growth, yes, but a city that certainly is in tune with its heritage. He said that Dubai is Dubai and nothing more. “If you look at it, nobody can not be impressed by that city. It is a thing of wonder, a true achievement by man.” He went on to say that he loved visiting Dubai because it offers everything that anyone could ever need with regard to fashion, cars, electronics, investments, tourism, etc. He said there is no shame in living in a city where such tremendous action occurs and is driven by mass revenues. However, he smiled and said, “I am Omani and I am a proud Arab — Are those Emirates from Dubai ‘money’?” Good question, Hayan.

Nobody in the Gulf sees Dubai as an incursion of infidel consumerism trying to overthrow traditional Arab and Islamic values. Remember, the UAE is still an Islamic nation by majority, and while Arabic may be outspoken by Hindi in places like Dubai, it is the national language and Emirates are quick to reminder everyone that they are Arab. For most people, Dubai is the willful resultant of people with far too much money to spend, and without any precedence from within their history on how to spend it. I love Dubai, I see a lot of opportunity in Dubai and I very well may live and work there myself. However, I know that when I’m in Dubai, I am not going there for culture because the only culture is money. I cannot pass judgment on the Emirates for how much they value their history — maybe it IS adequate to remember that history progresses and that progression has led from nomad to oil tycoon. But then again, the question of Emirate identity is perplexing, and perhaps it may only be said that it is far different from any other place in the Middle East. I love Dubai, and I love Abu Dhabi, and I hope to explore the other Emirates sometime soon in my life. Maybe then I’ll be able to construct their true identity a little bit better.

As an aside, let me just as that my studies and life here in Oman are status quo — which mean excellent! I’ll write soon.

Sam

Reflective Journal Entry 6:

Hey Everyone!

Well, I’ve been in Oman for some 4.5 weeks now, which means I only have about 20 days left! This time has gone by very quickly, and I can’t even measure how much I’ve learned. In fact, starting this Saturday, I’m being given a personal grammar teacher because I’ve outpaced the rest of the Arabic students at the center. By my observation, I’m probably the only true “advanced” student at CIL right now, so they’re trying to give me some more one on one time. Of course, being advanced is Arabic is a real misnomer since I have so much more to learn and get better at. I’m looking forward to the challenge!

This week, I decided to interview three Omanis of different ages and varieties about their attitudes towards the upcoming US elections. I asked my younger host sister, Najla, my PF Muhammad, and my friend’s host father, Sa’ad about their perspectives.

Najla is 11 years old and doesn’t seem to care that much about the dynamics of US politics and its most consequential event — the November election. However, I still thought it would be interesting to gauge the perspective of Oman’s youngest observational generation. She was born as the Iraq war began, so she was not exposed to the United States pre-9/11 and War on Terror. She does not have a bad opinion of the US (she says as she watches an American cartoon), but she does know the United States is involved all over the Middle East and that some of her friends and their families occasionally complain about US politics. This just about all I got out of her!

My PF Muhammad is 22 years old and a very bright guy studying at Sultan Qaboos University. He’s involved in all sorts of great groups at SQU, and has a passion for talking about politics. Muhammad is a geologist who has recently received honors for his work, and subsequently, is traveling to NYC, Chicago and Dallas to present his work. He has been asking the American students all summer about what he can expect when he arrives in the US. He’s a pretty conservative guy (he’s always in traditional Omani clothing and often cites passages from the Qur’an in his opinion making), but he’s excited about the chance to see the US first hand. He has a very positive attitude about the US, but is critical of some of our foreign policy decisions. He is old enough to remember the Iraq War and, of course, the events which followed it. As is the case with many Omani Arabs, Muhammad does not like President George W. Bush, and resents his insistence on invading Iraq, even though he was quick to denounce Saddam Hussein. Because of this, he distrusts the Republican party, so even though he could not readily remember that Mitt Romney is their candidate, he said he outright prefers President Obama and the Democrats. He cited his administration’s insistence on removing troops from Iraq as reason enough for him preferring President Obama. Although, he added that he thinks the Republicans are quote, “greedy” and don’t like to give back to their people. Stereotypes really do cross oceans!

Finally, I asked my friend’s host father, Sa’ad, about his ideas. He pretty much echoed Muhammad’s negative memories of President Bush’s association with the 2003 Iraq War. It seems that this is a common theme throughout Oman. However, he gave another reason for preferring the Democrats over the Republicans in this year’s upcoming election: due to the Republican’s firm pro-Israel stance. I won’t write the details (don’t worry, nothing was extreme), but he says that any party that constantly sides with Israel isn’t going to attract much fan fare among Arabs. I mean, this is pretty much inferred…\

So there you have it, three people with three different, yet parallel views. Mind you, every one of these people either used an American phone, cited American pop culture, wore American clothing, or was otherwise pro-American while I talked to them about the election. The most important thing — Omanis are generally very receptive of American culture and people!

Reflective Journal Entry 7:

Hello from Notre Dame!

As I sit here on campus considering the whirlwind of traveling that I have experienced over the past year, I look back on my time in Oman as instrumental in my own personal development. A few reflections from the Gulf:

1. My Arabic skills have vastly improved. When I arrived in Oman, I was EXTREMELY rusty in my skills to the point that I felt like a beginner when I took my OPIc. Well, I left Oman conversationally fluent and able to read an Arabic newspaper. Arabic has become such an important part of me. And as we all seek to hone ourselves, I will continue making Arabic a priority in my life.

2. The Arab world is one of vastness. That sounds like an awkward or clumsy statement, but it aptly reflects the true nature of the region. It is vast both in terms of area, stretching from Morocco in the West to Iraq in the North to areas even south of what we consider the “Middle East”, but it is also vast in terms of the amazing breadth of cultures, people, languages, traditions, ideology and religion. An Arab is both a Muslim and a Jew, a speaker of Arabic and dialect, a national citizen and a regional citizen. You will not find any one stereotypical Arab just like you will not find any one stereotypical American. I so very much enjoyed living with my host family and becoming much better friends with people from around the Gulf. It is a remarkable sub-region of the Arab world. However, there is so much to learn about the area, and I believe the next time I travel to the Arab world I will be in search of its infinite nature.

3. I am born to travel. I love it, I do it well, and I find myself very internationally focused as I begin my senior year. My travels throughout Oman and the Gulf, in addition to all those months I lived in Europe, have taught me that I am capable of living abroad and remaining diligent as a world citizen.

In conclusion to my SLA grant, I have to thank my donors, members of the CSLC and everyone else who aided me in my acquisition of the grant and my time in Oman. It was unforgettable, and I hope that I will be able to convince more Arabic students to explore the Gulf region.

Postcard(s) from Abroad:

Reflection on my language learning and intercultural gains:

I was once again privileged enough to live with an Omani home stay family – As I originally, thought, this opportunity proved to be an invaluable part of my language acquisition process. I spent a lot of my free time hanging out with my host brothers (who did speak English) and their friends (who did not). Not only did this assist in garnering more Arabic, it was crucial to me becoming comfortable as a part of Omani culture. They accepted me in virtually every way. As far as my own language goals, I am very pleased with where I ended up. It will not show in my OPI because I did awful, but my speaking skills are very good. In addition, I can read and write at a thoroughly advanced level. It will be about the maintenance now.

Reflection on my summer language abroad experience overall:

Once again, my trip to Oman has left an indelible mark upon my maturation both as an Arabist and as a world citizen. I was able to further my relationships with people I had already known, and I expanded my friends to include ones that will be a part of my life for a long time. In honesty, this summer has solidified for me that people are really not all that different – we all have hopes and dreams, aspirations, families, opinions. I feel comfortable in the Gulf, and I am happy that I had the opportunity to travel even more extensively this past summer than the one before. I am deeply considering a career in this part of the world.As for any advice I could give to future SLA recipients – don’t be afraid to be afraid. Naturally,  when you immerse yourself in a new language and culture, you will have a certain level of anxiety (especially if you are living with a home stay family). Take risks, put yourself on the line, and challenge yourself to do something extraordinary – even if that extraordinary event is making a new friend.

How I plan to use my language and intercultural competences in the future:

I am continuing with my Arabic study here on campus, and I intend to have directed readings next semester. I am also writing a joint Arabic Studies/Peace Studies senior thesis that is exploring the political and military capacities of the Gulf Cooperation Council. Beyond this, I look forward to attending law school and becoming increasingly well versed in security issues that relate to the Middle East.