Tag: thai

So Thai

NINE things that are indeed, very Thai.

  1. Durian
  2. Tuuk Tuuk
  3. Muay Thai
  4. Spirit Houses
  5. The Wai
  6. Night Markets
  7. Buddhist Monks
  8. Bagged Food
  9. Images of the King      (I chose nine things because the number 9 is lucky according to Thai superstition, and it is an important number in Thai culture. Many Thai people continue to show reverence for Rama 9, the late King Bumibol Adulyadej by wearing a thai number 9 on their clothing.)
    Thai numbers – 9 is on the bottom right and looks like an elephant.

    I continued to take Thai language lessons all the way until the day before my flight. I’m very grateful to my 3 Thai teachers: Kruu Simon, Ajaan Lah and Kruu Kaan. Each one of them helped me tremendously on this journey.

    Post-Program Reflections

    Through Thai language I am able to grasp better understanding about Thai thinking and ways of operating. Memories resurface from my childhood and now make more sense.

    Surprisingly, I met the language goals I set for myself before starting off on this trip. My language learning went through many stages during the trip. At times it was easy, fun, dizzying, rigorous and tough. I did not expect the rollercoaster range of emotions that go with language learning and living independently in another country for a length of time. Two months is short, yet Thai time is very different than American time, for sure.

    One thing I have brought back as a result of this experience, is the idea of “Mai Bpen Rai.” It’s a phrase that is similar to ‘sabai sabai’ and loosely, it means never mind, no problem, it’s OK… That’s something I repeat internally to myself, in or out of Thailand. Like many other things, language learning is a life-practice, and this mantra allows me to accept the process. I apply it to many aspects of my life, and it expands my heart.

    Where do I go from here? Well, I continue to study Thai. I watch videos, do exercises in my workbooks, and am setting up weekly Skype lessons. (I actually feel a bit of withdrawal!) I remain connected to the dear friends and professional contacts that I’ve made. I anticipate returning in the near future. This experience has helped me on my way towards building an exchange program between Thailand and the US.

Surprise Visit + Beauty of the Mundane

A surprise visit from my partner, Laos! We had traditional Lanna style photos taken. So much fun! This week I learned all about foods and flavors. I could read more items on menus and customized my dishes. Laos and I ate delicious khao soi (curry soup), northern minced pork cooked in banana leaves, and spicy chicken bamii noodle salad.

I learned a new phrase  – “Dern chon dern.” It is similar to the expression we have in the states, “Paycheck to paycheck.” I asked 3 different people their opinions on this phrase. All of them agreed that it is somewhat common to go about daily life this way. It is not looked down upon. One person estimated that about 80% of Thailand’s middle class operate in this way. One discussion veered into human rights. We talked about the idea of democracy, and how the meaning of freedom is characterized in Thai and American cultures. Two of the people I talked to said that they believed that women in Thailand  have a better chance at earning more than their male counterparts. I found this all to be very interesting and in alignment with my new favorite word ความคิดเห็น (quam-kit-hen). It means “opinion” and literally translates into “think, see” with the word “quam” turning the verb(s) into a noun.

I discovered more parts of the old city. I visited many lovely wats (temples), but this week I was more allured by everyday architecture and ordinary things I saw on the street. I was inspired by the combinations of colorful kitch, and modernized ancient customs that are around every corner.

Updates this week:

  • Found a new apartment in the old city!
  • Attended a Thai Toastmasters Club meeting and spoke briefly in Thai to an audience. I took on the official job of being the “ahhs, umms and errs” counter and also gave a speech! (spontaneity points LOL!)
  • First time to pay a local fare price for the songtaew!!!! AKA treated like a local!
  • Learning more grammar rules and gaining a better grasp of complex vowels, consonant clusters and tones. Currently reading short stories in Thai.

Chance Encounters + ผลไม้ FRUIT as National Identity

The foul-smelling King of Fruits,
the durian, is in peak season here!

For some, the durian’s pungent odor is fragrant and sweet, but to others, its smell is closer to old gyms socks, turpentine and onions, sewer gas, or rotten cheese. It’s a beautiful, yet mean looking fruit and it is truly tied to Thai identity! 

There is an art to picking a good durian. I often watch people hunting for their perfect durian. Similar to a car accident or NYC breakdancers, it’s hard not to notice the frenzy and excitement that happens around durian stalls. People intensely inspect the stems and character of its outer layer. The spikes are felt for firmness, the skin mustn’t have dark spots, the smell must be sweet… When one knocks on it, the sound must be right. And then, the fruit seller will split it open very carefully. It’s inside flesh must be somewhat firm, not too mushy or yellow.

Finding the perfect (or not-so-perfect) durian can mean love or disgust for this fruit – am I am on the prowl!

Airports, hotels and other public places sometimes ban the fruit because of its strong odor. A Thai scientist has even invented an odorless durian! 

*This post was inspired by SLA’s community task, to find a food that is unique to Thai national identity.

Quick summary of the week:

  • I was able to read 4 things on the Thai menu and ordered one for lunch!
  • Flipped through a beautiful book on the Ramakien, a mythological epic of higher beings influencing mortal life. (When I was growing up we had a large wall hanging of one of the scenes and I never knew anything about it until now.)

    Rubbings of the Ramakien depictions are no longer permitted.
  • Sat in the front seat of a songtaew (pick-up truck bus) and spoke Thai with the driver who gave me a bracelet for good luck!
  • Double meaning incident – At the stationary store, the checkout cashier asked “Saai toong?” I knew it meant bag, so I said no thanks. I asked her to repeat it because the verb sounded familiar. I had just learned this verb meaning to “put on.” There was a strange look between the 2 checkout cashiers and she repeated the phrase. I then went to my lesson and without mentioning what had just happened, the teacher explained that this phrase can mean “put it in the bag” OR “put on a condom.” Hmmmm.
  • I attended a great international language exchange event and made new friends! Few days later, invited to a house gathering of natives and expats. (Thai, English and French spoken – all my languages!)
  • Reading “Mai Pen Rai Means Never Mind” by Carol Hollinger.
  • As the sun was setting, I ate rambutan on my balcony.  The book I am reading (link above) describes เงาะ as “an improbable fruit that tastes like a grape and looks like an aged strawberry equipped with porcupine quills.”

Things are finally coming together!

Found a quiet street with beautiful old trees and a great place for coconut milk ice cream. 🙂

I will totally admit that it has not been easy finding all the things I need here! The city has a dizzying assortment of offerings at every turn. I also refuse to pay the 3x or more tourist price! Therefore, I make my life more complicated, but it is through this challenge that I learn the most about Chiang Mai. I am slowly acquiring local secrets! For example, I can get discounted fruit and veggies in the evening! It’s totally fresh, but certain stores need to sell it before closing time! Also, I’ve been learning which markets have the best deals and for what merchandise. I’ve been looking for a small and inexpensive electric fan for my room. I don’t want to run the air conditioner all night because it’s not only wasteful but it will run up my electric bill like crazy! Who knew it would be so hard to find a small electric fan in a hot country?! Well, after days and more hot days of hunting, I have found one and I am basking in the cool air as I type. Ahhhhhh, plus mmmmmmmm, I am eating my discounted mango slices.

Life is ‘sabai sabai’ right now.

This wonderful expression has many connotations, and one needs to truly absorb its array of meanings here in Thailand. It reveals itself in layers, and only if you let it. Sabai Sabai literally means doing well, and since it is said twice it means really doing well, but this is but a fraction of its actual meaning.

Sabai Sabai is an attitude.

It sometimes means relaxed, comfortable, or just plain chill. In some ways it is one’s ultimate acceptance of everything that is and will be….come what may…

Learning thai language requires an understanding of local customs, attitudes and histories. Sabai sabai is essential!

Notes!!! Learning new words for my flashcards!

My classes have been primarily focused on tone. Thai is a tonal language so the way you say the same word makes all the difference. Some classes felt more like singing lessons! Slowly, I am refining my tonal pronunciation. I’m so glad to be here for that reason. It’s so important to speak it and hear it constantly in order to fine tune the ear to the subtlety of tones.

The last few days have been really different. Abstract decorative script has started to become recognizable as sounds and syllables!!! I find myself always trying to read and sound out the words I see on the street.

I’ve been doing all sorts of things to learn thai…sparking conversation with locals, bargaining just to practice, asking directions to places that I’m not going to, watching Thai movies, making flashcards, thai word post-its all over my apartment, online apps, grammar drills, you name it! I just had to share this wonderful, hilarious video of a gal learning through song…

LOL!!!  Instead of LOL in thai – they use 555 because the way you say the number 5 is “haa.”

555!!!

Tomorrow I will try a local language exchange meetup! Continue reading Things are finally coming together!