Author: Denise

Love for Japan (based on mere observations)

Growing up in China, I struggled with what attitude I should hold whenever Japan is mentioned. To many Chinese people, Japan is a constant reminder of humiliation and sorrow due to its encroachment on China’s land and lives in contemporary history. Today, it remains as an immense threat, a neighbor that is unfriendly, yet well-respected internationally. My dad is a fan of Japanese literature and takes an unconventional stance on Japan, and thus the contradictory and opposing comments on Japan confused yet mesmerized me.

I started taking Japanese my second year of college, with no definite purpose in mind. Part of it has to do with that confusion. Hearing about Japan would never render me a holistic picture of it, and even if nobody might ever know Japan fully, I hoped to discover it on my own

Thus learning the language serves the goal. I could only observe Japan from a distance if I have no background in Japanese, but with a proficiency in Japanese, I could not only get to know the English speakers I encounter on the trip, but also people from all different social economic backgrounds. As someone who believes that “the place nurtures its own people,” I could not wait to find out what Japanese are like, and how Japan shapes them into different people from, let’s say, Chinese people and Americans.

The moment I arrived in Japan, I fell in love with it. From just looking around, I could tell that this is a place characterized by order and neatness. All the service providers greeted me with sincere smiles, and used the polite expressions to show respect. The bus I took to the hotel was clean with dustless windows, and despite carrying a full car of people, it was absolutely quiet.

The more I get to see about Japan, the more appreciation I have for it. The first night my friends and I explored the city of Kanazawa, we spotted neither trash nor trash can on the street. Later, we learned that in order to realize the goal of optimizing recycling, in Japan, people either throw the trash at the categorized trash cans convenient stores, or keep it at their own home, and throw it out later, normally at the day that collects a specific kind of trash.

The self-discipline that Japanese people have simply impressed me. At least I experienced difficulties with this recycling system at first, and have naturally grown respect for those who fastidiously follow it. But trashing is not the only thing that demonstrates the self-discipline and attentiveness of Japanese people, there are more to name. Japan is somewhere where restaurants can be quiet enough for studying, where people can walk on the street at 2 am in the morning without fear of robbery or crimes, and where people dress nicely in shirts and dresses. Most importantly, this is a place where I never feel ashamed of my unsatisfying Japanese, because all people do is to praise my Japanese skills and encourage me to work harder. 

With all these observations, I have to say that Japan humbles me and makes me more aware of the strengths that others have. Often times, countries like USA and China pop up in my mind when I was asked to name countries of great national merits, but what exactly is national merit? At least in Japan, I constantly marvel at the neatness and order, and wish these are not characters exclusively found in Japan. 

(exploring Kanazawa with friends)

The Summer Palace

During our first weekend in Beijing, we decided to explore one of Beijing’s most famous tourist destinations: The Summer Palace (颐和园). The Summer Palace is in the northwest corner of Beijing which is very close to Peking University. The Summer Palace includes a very large piece of land which include hills, lakes, and many different buildings. The origins of the palace date back to the pre-Qing dynasty. The buildings in the hills of the park were built for various reasons throughout the years, and many different Chinese leaders lived at the Palace. The Palace has a rich history which includes destruction, looting, and rebuilding.

Thousands of people visit the park every day since it was converted into a tourist destination. From the top of the hills, you can get an incredible view of Beijing. You can see the modern buildings and construction surrounding ancient pagodas. At the bottom of the hills, there is a vast lake called Kunming lake, where you can rent boats and explore the park from the water.

Our trip to the Summer Palace was one of my favorite things thus far because of how beautiful the architecture and views were. Also, it was humbling to be in such a historical place of one of the world’s most historical cities.

Surprise Visit + Beauty of the Mundane

A surprise visit from my partner, Laos! We had traditional Lanna style photos taken. So much fun! This week I learned all about foods and flavors. I could read more items on menus and customized my dishes. Laos and I ate delicious khao soi (curry soup), northern minced pork cooked in banana leaves, and spicy chicken bamii noodle salad.

I learned a new phrase  – “Dern chon dern.” It is similar to the expression we have in the states, “Paycheck to paycheck.” I asked 3 different people their opinions on this phrase. All of them agreed that it is somewhat common to go about daily life this way. It is not looked down upon. One person estimated that about 80% of Thailand’s middle class operate in this way. One discussion veered into human rights. We talked about the idea of democracy, and how the meaning of freedom is characterized in Thai and American cultures. Two of the people I talked to said that they believed that women in Thailand  have a better chance at earning more than their male counterparts. I found this all to be very interesting and in alignment with my new favorite word ความคิดเห็น (quam-kit-hen). It means “opinion” and literally translates into “think, see” with the word “quam” turning the verb(s) into a noun.

I discovered more parts of the old city. I visited many lovely wats (temples), but this week I was more allured by everyday architecture and ordinary things I saw on the street. I was inspired by the combinations of colorful kitch, and modernized ancient customs that are around every corner.

Updates this week:

  • Found a new apartment in the old city!
  • Attended a Thai Toastmasters Club meeting and spoke briefly in Thai to an audience. I took on the official job of being the “ahhs, umms and errs” counter and also gave a speech! (spontaneity points LOL!)
  • First time to pay a local fare price for the songtaew!!!! AKA treated like a local!
  • Learning more grammar rules and gaining a better grasp of complex vowels, consonant clusters and tones. Currently reading short stories in Thai.

French cuisine on an outdoor terrace.

une baguette = traditional French bread. une baguette magique = magic wand. les baguettes = chopsticks

The word “baguette” describes a carbohydrate, the wizarding world’s no. 2 pencil, and the contents of my family’s utensil drawer. This is the culture of French cuisine perfectly manifested in the language. I recounted my revelation to my French friends, but it seems I’m the only one who finds this hilarious.

French meals are three courses, comprised of an entrée, a plat principal, and a dessert. When you go to a French restaurant, there are formules that convince (or manipulate) you into getting all three courses. I won’t fight it. One of my favorite entrées is the chèvre chaud, which is a bed of romaine topped with warm chèvre cheese, jumbo croutons, and French dressing. The plat principal follows the entrée, and is could be a protein with greens and potatoes on the side. To finish off a French meal, you might have fromage blanc for dessert, which is a sweet yogurt cream hybrid. Dessert includes a shot of espresso, locally coined un café.

I shared dinner with my host family five times a week, which was agreeable for both my language learning and appetite. Frommy was an excellent cook! She spoiled me with quiches, pastas, various meat dishes, and casseroles. At the end of each meal, she would break out the bread and the most magnificent assortment of cheeses. Frommy wasn’t too big on sweets, but that was probably for the best. My favorite of her dishes, was a salade compote, which had romaine, corn, parmesean, ham, tomatoes, and cucumbers all dressed in olive oil, salt, and pepper!

After 5 weeks pampered with French cuisine, I moved into an AirBnB, and was left to fend for myself. This was a blessing in disguise, because then I discovered Paris’ plethora of outdoor markets. Each arrondissement of Paris has a unique local market, each with its own character and charm. I love browsing through the colorful selection of produce, exotic meats (duck and rabbit?), fresh seafood, bread, and cheese. There are over 300 types of cheese that originate in France. Depending on the market, you may also find prepared dishes, used books, clothing, and plants.

As much as I love cooking, there is nothing really quite like the French café. In the mornings, locals relax over espresso and gentle conversation. During meal hours, you can see folks enjoying courses of bread, salad, meats, and dessert. As the daylight dims, Parisians sip wine and laugh amongst friends. Grocery stores close at 9pm, but cafes remain lively until 2am. Seating is so packed that you often move the entire table to settle down, and so intimate that only a few, animated, decibels above a whisper are sufficient.

French cuisine and meal-time etiquette gave me great insight to their way of life. They value quality time, food, and company. The outdoor terrace culture also reveals the mild nature of Parisian weather, because this would not fly in South Bend, IN.

Week 3

This week has been a tough week across Europe. It has been HOT. My classroom and apartment are both on the sixth floor, which can make for long and sweaty days and nights. Despite that, though, I lived to see the other side and managed to get out and do some cultural activities as well. Notably, I visited The Pompidou Center and the Musée d’Orsay with some friends that I have made in class. Having studied art history before, it was really interesting to see the juxtaposition offered by a contemporary/modern museum and a primarily impressionist museum. Each museum showcased many artists that I have already spent great time studying, so it was really great to try to remember the specifics of each artist’s technique and style.

In other news, I finally made it around to doing a book shop tour! While I loved most places I visited, my favorite was called Shakespeare and Sons. While the bookstore does have locations across Europe, I found the Parisienne version to be the best one I have visited yet. There were both French and English sections (the books are normally only in English). In addition, there was an entire section dedicated to used books containing French poetry. If you know me, you know that I spent at least an hour in this one room alone… I ended up buying “Ne tirez pas sur l’oiseau moqueur”, or To Kill a Mockingbird, in French. I spent the following few days engrossed in the book just as I had been when I first read it. The best part for me, though, was rediscovering the story through the eyes of the French language — there are tons of nuances in the story that simply do not exist in English.

Speaking of French, my class has been continuing very well. While I must admit I had trouble getting out of bed to go sit in a smoldering hot classroom each morning, I found that each time I decided to go I ended up being happy with my decision. This class has already helped me so much (maybe even more than a semester’s worth of French in the US). This week, our class only had five people in it, so we each received a lot of personal attention that allowed for me to focus a lot on my oral production skills (which are certainly what I lack the most). My professor, while nice, is quick to point out errors and make corrections. While some in the class do not apreciate her bluntness, I for one find it incredibly helpful. I only wish that French people had forcibly pointed out my mistakes before this class! Who knows what kind of awful mistakes I have been ignorantly making all along! While it is unlikely, I am hoping that our class remains intimate!

Anyways, that’s all for now. I’ll be sure to update you next week!

à plus!

 

Cezanne’s famous apples at Musée d’orsay!

A few photos of the bookshop! On the right is a part of the French poetry room.

Chance Encounters + ผลไม้ FRUIT as National Identity

The foul-smelling King of Fruits,
the durian, is in peak season here!

For some, the durian’s pungent odor is fragrant and sweet, but to others, its smell is closer to old gyms socks, turpentine and onions, sewer gas, or rotten cheese. It’s a beautiful, yet mean looking fruit and it is truly tied to Thai identity! 

There is an art to picking a good durian. I often watch people hunting for their perfect durian. Similar to a car accident or NYC breakdancers, it’s hard not to notice the frenzy and excitement that happens around durian stalls. People intensely inspect the stems and character of its outer layer. The spikes are felt for firmness, the skin mustn’t have dark spots, the smell must be sweet… When one knocks on it, the sound must be right. And then, the fruit seller will split it open very carefully. It’s inside flesh must be somewhat firm, not too mushy or yellow.

Finding the perfect (or not-so-perfect) durian can mean love or disgust for this fruit – am I am on the prowl!

Airports, hotels and other public places sometimes ban the fruit because of its strong odor. A Thai scientist has even invented an odorless durian! 

*This post was inspired by SLA’s community task, to find a food that is unique to Thai national identity.

Quick summary of the week:

  • I was able to read 4 things on the Thai menu and ordered one for lunch!
  • Flipped through a beautiful book on the Ramakien, a mythological epic of higher beings influencing mortal life. (When I was growing up we had a large wall hanging of one of the scenes and I never knew anything about it until now.)

    Rubbings of the Ramakien depictions are no longer permitted.
  • Sat in the front seat of a songtaew (pick-up truck bus) and spoke Thai with the driver who gave me a bracelet for good luck!
  • Double meaning incident – At the stationary store, the checkout cashier asked “Saai toong?” I knew it meant bag, so I said no thanks. I asked her to repeat it because the verb sounded familiar. I had just learned this verb meaning to “put on.” There was a strange look between the 2 checkout cashiers and she repeated the phrase. I then went to my lesson and without mentioning what had just happened, the teacher explained that this phrase can mean “put it in the bag” OR “put on a condom.” Hmmmm.
  • I attended a great international language exchange event and made new friends! Few days later, invited to a house gathering of natives and expats. (Thai, English and French spoken – all my languages!)
  • Reading “Mai Pen Rai Means Never Mind” by Carol Hollinger.
  • As the sun was setting, I ate rambutan on my balcony.  The book I am reading (link above) describes เงาะ as “an improbable fruit that tastes like a grape and looks like an aged strawberry equipped with porcupine quills.”

Первый день в Москве

After struggling for several weeks trying to complying with the Russian Visa requirement, I finally arrived in Moscow on June 7th. While I was waiting for the driver to pick me up, I talked to the first Russian local I met to purchase a local SIM card. The first thing that came to my mind when I tried to speak Russian was: Wow, I really should have studied harder back in school. With a mixture of Russian, English and body language, I was finally able to purchase the plan I wanted.

On my way from the airport to Moscow State University where I am going to study at, I was able to glance at the city for the first time. It was nothing like the stereotypes that we always hear of. The temperature was normal, even warmer than South Bend. The city was new, showed little sign, if there was any, of a decaying economy.

Moscow State University Main Building

After almost an hour’s drive, I finally arrived at Moscow State University, my home for the next month. Moscow State University is the most prestigious school in the country and was established in 1755. It took me almost one hour to finally find the rector who was in charge of moving in issues. I was assigned to a double with a Russian post-doc student. Although the room is called as a double, it is actually a room divided into two singles with two people sharing the bathroom and toilet. You may think Russians are cold, as no one walking on the street would smile like people do in the states. My roommate said or did nothing as she saw me move in to my room until I knocked on her door and started introducing myself. She is actually very nice and friendly, giving me her number and telling me to ask her for help if needed. Later that evening I met with the orientation guide from my program. She gave me a tour around the university and helped me buy some daily necessities. We also ran into other students of my program accidentally, and went out together later that night.

A Touch of Fimilarity

This past week I was fortunate to meet up with three friends from home, all in separate instances. I’ll first comment on the experiences as a whole – it was undeniably nice to finally come into contact with some level of familiarity. The dinners and meetups had this odd recharging effect. As fun as it’s been to be the only native english speaker in my language classes or hostel, the day-to-day can be quite exhausting. In talking to these three individuals – a friend from ND, someone from my hometown who now lives here permanently, and my high school german teacher – I didn’t have to psychologically drain myself to keep my brain in german mode all day.

The first meeting was with close friend from ND who’d home base is in Berlin for the summer. He made a trip down to Munich with some other classmates and we were fortunate enough to be able to meet up, get lunch, and walk around a bit. We talked prospectively about the way in which being abroad will affect our view of our lives in the US, the nuances of German culture, and his economics courses. Our conversation about post WW2 german economic development was particularly interesting and thought provoking to me; I thought in that instance about pursuing the subject as a research foray, with an emphasis on the philosophical and political side of the coin rather than the economic.

My second meeting was for dinner at a Biergarten with someone from my hometown. For an economically stagnated town of 14000, finding out from my mother that he resided in Munich was an absolute treat. And the dinner did not disappoint. He is an extremely bright guy – I think personally connecting with novice (I use that term strongly) intellectuals is easier for me. We talked about the transition from American to German life, differences in cultures, and so on. Our most interesting discussion was on the idea of leisure in Europe versus America and how the continents’ respective leisure habits can say things about the people that live there and what it’s like to live there. This blew up into a full scale unpacking of the European condition – seemingly more wise and aged than the United States – full of appreciation for life that arises from massive levels of death and destruction. Our conversation really inspired me to possibly live overseas for awhile; it firmed up the idea of the necessity of globalism in leading a rich, wise life.

Finally, I had the absolute treat of meeting up with my former high school german teacher and a group of her students for dinner. The above hometown friend also attended. I could tell my teacher was elated, teeming with pride over two former students whose life course she affected so greatly. It was an unbelievably laid back dinner, which was aided by her insistence that I try both the Weiß and Weiß Dunkel beers. We finally talked on a peer-to-peer level, which was enlightening. It gave me an even deeper respect for her than I had before; I was finally able to see the world through her eyes. It made me grateful to have such a positive presence in my formative years.

2eme Semaine — Les élections législatives (le 1ere tour)

I can hardly believe that I am writing this, but today marks the end of my first two weeks living in Paris and studying at l’alliance française. Time has flown by, which I suppose is a good thing because it means my days have been filled with exploration and learning, but I do hope things slow down a little bit so I can absorb all that is happening in my life before making the trip home to the US.

This week has been an especially interesting one, as the French partook in the first round of the legislative elections, which confirmed that Macron will most likely have the majority he needed to be an effective leader. While the results were not surprising (and thank God, I have had enough of political surprises….), it was still incredibly interesting to view the French political system for not the first, nor second, but THIRD time this year. As a Political Science student, I could not have picked a better time to be in France as I have been able to watch the elections from a unique perspective. In my class, we spent an entire day debating the merits of each prominent French political party. However, we were randomly assigned the party that we would debate in favor of…. Being a relatively hardcore leftist, I was naturally assigned le Front National (the party of Marine le Pen et co.). What was interesting about this exercise, though, is that we were able to cross so many different disciplines in order to practice our oral french: politics, philosophy, french, ethics, history, etc. The activity also allowed for us to ask our professor questions about her experience as a French person during these elections, which was an interesting insight in the political mind of a Parisienne. This small activity sums up my experience thus far with my classes. The Professor is incredibly forward thinking, and is not afraid to try out different activities even at the risk of a failure. I have found her style of teaching the most effective that I have ever received in the subject. This experience has been exactly what I needed in order to cement the huge progress that I have made on my French within the past year.

In terms of city visits, I thought that I would stick to the political theme (even though in my last blog post I promised a review of Paris’ best book shops… that’s to come, I promise!) I spent Wednesday walking around the center of Paris, making stops at the National Assembly, the Senate, and the Hotel de Ville (the home of many city departments). These visits were super touristy, filled with people, sweaty, but so amazing. After my yearlong experience watching and learning about French political systems, it was so cool to be able to finally see the buildings where the 5eme Republique operates. Below are some pictures of the things I saw!

 

The National Assembly

The Senate (why does it look like fall / spring you ask? Okay, so yes I got this image from google… none of mine did it justice… you caught me),

Hotel de Ville

 

Until next week…!

le système de santé

Absorb the language, feast on baguettes, meet locals. So far, I have been eager to immerse myself in the beauties of la vie française. However, I neglected to realize that immersion does not discriminate. Sure, I found the culture, but it was a disagreeable, unappetizing, uncomfortable viral culture in my gut. But at least, it was an opportunity to experience the French système de santé.

I noticed my mysterious illness when I became fatigued in the middle of the day. Even after sleeping for 13 hours, I was exhausted. My stomach ached and my body protested everything I consumed. A pain woke me up on Sunday morning, so I decided to visit the hospital.

I went to Hôpital Universitaire Pitié-Salpêtrière, which was remarkably slow and dirty. Garbage littered the halls and ill folks slept on the floors. US hospitals smell like illness, but a sterile illness. When I was seen, I was directed to a city laboratory to give samples, and a pharmacy for pain medication. Laboratories and pharmacies are separate from the hospitals, and closed on Sundays and national holidays. I would have to wait two more days to receive medication and lab work. When in France, right? The pain medication did help though–see cover photo.

Two days later, I was finally able to pick up medication from the pharmacy without much trouble. The laboratory was a more complicated. The lab only took cash payments, and lab results take a week to turn out. Luckily, a few days returned my health to normal and was later verified by the lab results (long after the fact).

Though the French healthcare system is cheaper, it is also slower, dirtier, and caters not to the Sunday sick. The decentralization makes it difficult to navigate, and my lack of language did not make the situation easier. At the very least, I enjoyed engaging with the Parisian medical community. I would still recommend language tables, bars, and outdoor markets as primary methods of language acquisition, however.