Post-Arrival Blog – Muita Saudade do Brasil

Unfortunately, my summer time in Brazil has come to an end. I did not realize how much I was going to miss Brazil. The Portuguese language actually has a word for the feeling of missing someone or something: saudade. It came from Portugal’s colonizing era, where the family members of colonizers and colonists would feel a certain longing for their loved ones who were at another part of the Empire.

Words cannot properly express how much I learned and benefited from this SLA experience. I did not expect my Portuguese to improve as much as it did. My original goals included being able to be proficient enough in Portuguese that I could navigate daily life with minimal complications and to be able to understand and discuss social and political problems. To this extent, I was very successful, because the last three weeks I was able to do both with very few problems. One of the most insightful things I learned about language-learning is the importance of immersion. You have to focus on your language all day, from the start. I walked into my first day of Portuguese classes with barely any Portuguese, only Spanish (which contrary to popular opinion, is actually an OBSTACLE for properly learning Portuguese), and definitely struggled for the first two weeks. To continuously work on my language, I participated as much as I could in class to speak more confidently. What I realized was that when you do an immersion, the first few weeks are always hard. But there comes a point where something just “clicks” and you start speaking more proficiently, even if with errors. That’s what happened to me, and it’s the most wonderful feeling to have that click. Afterwords, you start speaking more naturally and even adapting your language’s filler words as you would in English.

Still, what I am most grateful for is the culture. What makes Brazil is the Brazilians. While I am certain that few places in the world match Rio’s natural beauty, I think it was the people who made my time there so special. I made strong relationships with my professors and with different friends of my age who are Brazilian. I felt cared for, loved, and immediately included everywhere I went. I was met with a hospitality and warmth I had never before seen, and this allowed me to explore different parts of myself and grow as a person with new people.

I told one of my Brazilian friends that my favorite Portuguese word was “apaixonado.” Coming from the word “apaixonar-se,” the term can metphorically mean to fall in love with someone romantically, but its usage tends to emphasize a process that is sudden and uncontrollable, becoming passionate or inflamed about something with strong (positive) feelings. I love it because this is how I felt about Brazil. I developed such a strong love for the country and its people who were so welcoming to me. When I left Brazil, I felt apaixonado for the country because it inspired such strong and loving feelings. I hope that one day, soon, I can come back.

Considering Brazil’s Diversity

(Week of July 10)

Last week, I took advanced Portuguese classes, meaning that I adopted more vocabulary to speak with Brazilians about social issues and movements (which was one of my goals from the beginning). Reading the literature on Brazilian social history was helpful to conceptually understanding its social dynamics across race, class, and religion, but nothing is as helpful as speaking to Brazilians themselves. This week during my immersion classes — where I spoke one-on-one with a professor all day and went into Rio to explore the different neighborhoods — I made it a point to speak more proficiently on these questions of race, class, and religion to hear them from Brazilians’ perspectives. I tried my best (but obviously, never entirely successfully) to leave behind the subjective mental schemas I bring as an American student who goes to Notre Dame.

One fascinating topic is race. I learned in class a few months back about the myth of Brazil’s “multiracial democracy,” the idea that Brazil was so “mixed” between Portuguese, African, and Indigenous peoples — as well as waves of immigrants — that the concept of “race” was not as strong or potentially discriminatory as it is in the United States. Based on both what I read and what I heard, though the category of race functions differently for everyone, some patterns were more prominent. For instance, most people I spoke with — some of whom identified as Black or “pardo” (a category that is akin to “mixed-race”) — acknowledged that race still plays a prominent role in many Brazilians’ socioeconomic standing, even if it was not always consciously acknowledged, pointing out that favelas were mostly populated by the descendants of formerly enslaved (Black) persons while wealthier neighborhoods tended to have a higher concentration of white people. Some saw Brazil as a majority-Black country based on data that showed that up to 54% of the population has African ancestry, while others repudiated American notions of race as too — quite literally — black and white. Some insisted that while race and racism is an issue, it is not the same as in the US, and that racial categories are far more fluid and difficult to neatly draw lines. For instance, in the US, a legacy of the one-drop rule relied on blood quantum to decide if a person was white or Black “enough,” while in Brazil, different categories existed that relied both on a person’s ancestry but also on their phenotype. When I paid attention to street art and graffiti, I noticed that many tended to be forms of resistance that in some way or another referenced race. Sometimes they honored the victims of police brutality and murder, and sometimes they even used the Portuguese translation of “Black Lives Matter.” When I asked if the BLM movement had been strong in Brazil as it expanded outside of the US, one person told me yes, but Brazil had already had a strong history of resistance to racism. Another person mentioned that Brazil had made some legal progress with regards to racism. When we passed by a wealthy shopping mall, they told me that if someone at the mall, for whatever reason, used racist language against them because they were Black, and they caught it on film, they could sue the person or potentially press charges. This was extremely interesting to me because to them, the notion that there should be limits on “free” speech did not seem that controversial; it was a way to protect them. They were actually shocked that in the US you were “allowed” to be racist verbally (which prompted some reflection on my part as to what free speech really protects).

Another interesting dynamic was the religious one. Brazil is currently a very religiously and spiritually diverse country. While the majority of Brazilians identity as Catholic, the concentration of Catholics varies by region. In recent years, as in much of Latin America, there has been a growth of Evangelical and Pentecostal practitioners. I spoke with many people about this phenomenon, and most tied it back to some political question. Most people I spoke with had negative attitudes towards Evangelicals. Some cited their religious beliefs themselves (such as opposition to LGBTQ rights or intolerance for African-descending religions like Umbanda or Candomblé), and almost all were concerned about Evangelicals’ growing political presence. Like in the United States, a coalition of conservative Evangelical voters is credited with fueling far-right political candidates, which has been one of the greatest comparisons between Trump’s right and Bolsonaro’s right. One person was outraged that the Evangelicals had a caucus in Congress, which they insisted should be completely secular. Another said to me that Evangelical pastors emotionally manipulated people in poverty with a “health and wealth” Gospel (the idea that if you give money to the church, worship God, and fully believe, then you will be rewarded with material gains. The people who made these points to me tended to be Catholic or nonreligiously aligned, though some still had Evangelical friends. I did still meet Evangelicals who identified with LGBT-affirming churches or centrist political opinions. Sometimes when they revealed themselves as Evangelicals to me, they immediately said something along the lines of “but a chill one” or “but not for Bolsonaro” to separate themselves from this seemingly-popular notion. I found Catholic voters to be fascinating too. While in the US, Catholic politics is often marked by discourse on social issues like abortion (which places the church in a far more conservative camp), the Catholic voters I spoke with in Brazil usually supported the left-leaning PT and strongly identified with the Church and the PT’s materialist politics and economically-left politics, focused on poverty, material redistribution, etc.

It is fascinating to me how much I was able to understand and take away from these conversations. I want to emphasize that none of the above views are necessarily my own nor “general” from Brazilians; they simply reflect individual conversations I had in Portuguese that could be indicative of larger trends. They reflect how some Brazilians see themselves through a specific social group. These types of conversations made me more appreciative of Brazil’s rich culture and diversity, and they especially fueled my interest in how social identities influence politics.

From Former Capital to the 2016 Olympics – A Timeless City

The past few weeks in Rio have continued to be incredible. Opportunities to practice the Portuguese language have continued to arise outside of the classroom. As time goes on, I am better able to adapt to non-carioca accents, including accents from São Paulo, the nordeste, and Rio Grande do Sul. I continue to use Portuguese daily in the classroom, outside of class, and with my host mom. I was talking with some of the students and teachers the other day about how much I love small phrases that Brazilians use a lot that in my opinion demonstrate the warmth of the country’s culture. For instance, when you inconvenience/accidentally harm someone and say “Sorry!” or when you thank them for doing something for you, often the response is “Imagina!” (imagine!) or “O que é isso!” (what is that!) Essentially, both phrases are warm ways that Brazilians brush off any feeling of burden or guilt by the other party. I really appreciate it, or being told “Relaxa!” (relax) when I am late to something.

June has had many different important dates and holidays, including Corpus Christi, Pride Month, Boyfriend/Girlfriend Day (“Valentine’s Day”), and more. I have attended and seen several of these celebrations, but ones that stood out to me were the festas juninas (June parties). Since it is the winter, festas juninas are often a way for people to continue community celebrations. Combined with the legacy of different saint days this month (Saint John, Saint Paul, and Saint Peter), the festas also involve wearing “traditional” clothing from the Brazilian countryside. Some people wear plaid shirts and straw hats to the events, which sometimes have lots of food from the nordeste. According to my teachers, these celebrations continue through July.

We’ve been able to engage with the city of Rio a great deal. Chances to practice Portuguese have led me to the different neighborhoods of Leblon, Ipanema, Copacabana, and Botafogo, as well as places like Parque Lage or Palacio de Catete. All have had splendid views. I’ve bee able to climb mountains and go around the lagoon, and I have found myself getting into such a rhythm everyday that the people at the juice place I go to know my order before I walk in the door.

Everyone has been incredibly friendly and I am again so thankful for the opportunity to be in Brazil. I have developed good friendships with non-Brazilians from school as well as many Brazilians themselves who have been wonderfully hospitable and receptive. I have exciting events going on this week that I am excited to share about later.

Until next time,
Benjamín

First On-Site Blog Post

My first few weeks in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, have been outstanding.
The Cidade Maravilhosa – the Marvelous City – is gorgeous and has breathtaking views from just about any of its mountaintops. The beaches are warm and quite full (though not so full of cariocas, who find 70 degree weather to be really cold).

I’ll discuss some of my first impressions of the city, culture, and the Portuguese language. First, the city has beautiful sites, but it is also staggeringly socially divided. The difference in wealth between the northern and southern parts of the city are obvious as one goes further from Centro to Zona Sul. Each of the city’s neighborhoods in around the area I’m in also have distinct characteristics: Centro, Botafogo, Urca, Copacabana, Ipanema, Leblon, and Barra. The streets are almost always full of pedestrians, casually dressed and going about their day.

Brazilian culture is beautiful, and carioca culture adds another layer of a cultural experience. People are in general extremely friendly and welcoming here. I have been surprised by how often strangers are willing to talk with me, especially once they find out I am not Brazilian. I have met many people in restaurants, on the streets, really anywhere, just through casual conversation. It is even better that those conversations have been in Portuguese!

I love the classes that I have taken in Portuguese through Rio&Learn. Surprisingly, I am the youngest student, but many professors are only a few years older than I am. Everyone is friendly, engaging, and eager to teach. I switch professors every other day, which is helpful for adapting to different Brazilian accents. I have learned the language quite quickly because the focus of the school is to put our words in action; they take us to the subway, restaurants, tourist areas, etc, to make sure that we know how to practically apply the language. As a result, I’ve found myself actually speaking Portuguese all day – with my professors, my classmate, and my host mom. I’ve been able to interview a political candidate because of my interest in local elections, and I have been able to pick up social justice language in Portuguese to talk about problems Brazilians face and solutions they envision. The first week was definitely a struggle to learn the language, but I remember that there came a point during the second week that I got into a passionate debate about a political topic (capitalism) when I realized I was actually speaking really fast and quite proficiently. I was at that moment proud of myself and also grateful to SLA for allowing me to invest in a program that has taught me a language so quickly.

Pre-Departure – An Introduction to Brazil

(Written last week)
Hello all! My name is Benjamín, and I am preparing for my independent Portuguese language study in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. Currently, I am in São Paulo for an NDI study abroad program focused on Brazil’s social mosaic, comprised of its ethnic, racial, and cultural diversity. I decided to do this study abroad right before my independent study in Rio because I wanted a brief introduction to Brazil through an intensive English-language course in order to have a better understanding of the country’s background. Nonetheless, all of the paulistanos say that the cities’ cultures are very different.

Being in São Paulo has only heightened my excitement to go to Rio on my own. The Cidade Maravilhosa, as it is called, is a cultural hub for the country with a rich history. Because Rio is home to so many treasures of Brazilian culture, I expect a culturally immersive time there to teach me in ways a classroom never could. For instance, I expect to be able to feel the liveliness of Rio’s samba, the fierceness of its capoeira, the heat of its sun, the power of its street art, and the beauty of its landscape in a way no textbook could summarize. Furthermore, I expect to have frequent interactions with cariocas since I will no longer be with the Notre Dame crew. That means I will have a better ability to enjoy their hospitality and learn from and about them.

At the moment, I need my Portuguese to simply be sufficient enough to survive and get by. I want to learn its basic grammatical structures and words used to communicate daily occurrences. However, it is also important to me that I be able to discuss politics and social issues once my Portuguese becomes more advanced. There is an election going on right now, and I would like to be able to generally understand what issues are of most concern to people. This will help me explore topics I would like to research in Portuguese in the future.

My time in São Paulo has felt like cultural whiplash from my semester in DC, and I think Rio might feel even more so like that. That is good and healthy, though; it will help me grow as a person to be able to adapt more to changing environments. I expect to grow in my flexibility and in my ability to self-advocate. My time in DC helped me master my command over my schedule, but I think there, with this newfound independence, I will allow myself to enjoy more spontaneity and cherish the little things that make Brazil what it is.

Until next time!

Benjamín