I’ll Be Right Back Siena

While I was excited to come home to see my family, I was incredibly sad to have to say goodbye to all those who I consider now to be my new family from Siena. Siena will forever have a special spot in my heart for the incredible memories that were made there. 

I came into this trip expecting to improve my Italian language skills; however, those expectations were significantly surpassed. After only five weeks of spending roughly six hours in the classroom every day and speaking in Italian with locals and foreigners wherever I went, I have drastically improved my language skills. Through this experience I have come to realize that, in order to really learn a language, it is necessary to practice speaking, reading, and listening to the language constantly and to engage with those who use it as their primary language. I believe that I was able to improve my language skills because I was determined to use Italian in all my daily activities. Looking back on how I approached my learning experience I am glad I attempted to simply speak the language without relying on a mental translator. By doing so, I was able to quickly apprehend phrases and words that do not have direct, exact translations.

Having gone to Sicily many times in the past and even living there during the summers, I thought that I had already understood the Italian culture. However, for me, going to Siena was like traveling to a completely different country. The natural geography of the land, the architecture of homes and buildings, the different dialects and accents of the Tuscan region, and the way people dress were completely different from anything I had experienced in Sicily. I already knew my first day in Siena that the 

My favorite part of the trip was becoming friends with local university students. Not only was I required to practice speaking Italian, but I also was able to learn the slang, jokes, and manners in informal conversation that I would not have been able to learn in the classroom. Although we have lived completely different lives since we grew up in different cultures and surroundings, I really enjoyed being able to engage with them as if we had grown up together. Their kindness and respect for me, as a foreigner, was something I really appreciated, and we plan on staying in touch though we may not be within the walls of Siena together anymore.

Anyone who is passionate about learning the language and culture of Italy should apply for an SLA. The grant provided me with an opportunity that has and will forever change my life. Although I could speak for days about how amazing my trip was, I believe that no one can really understand unless they experience it firsthand.  

Looking forward to my future, I plan to return to Siena every time I am in Italy in the future so that I can reconnect with all those who made my experience incredible. I also have been motivated to spend ample time in my future in Italy as a physician, providing healthcare to those in need, especially refugees. Although I had to leave Siena, I know that this is certainly not a forever goodbye. We may have had to part ways, but we will never forget the experiences we have shared.

See you soon Siena,

Gabriel Biondo

The Revolution Continues: Strike for Basic Rights

In modern history, South Korea has had a legacy of student led revolutions- from the Gwanju Uprising to the April 19th Revolution, student voices have been the catalysts of change in South Korean culture.

For months now, since March of this year in fact, the cleaning staff and security workers at Yonsei University have been on strike for better working conditions and higher wages. These Yonsei employees are a part of the 공공운수노조 (gong gong oon soo no jo), the Korean Public Service and Transport Worker’s Union (KPTU). Every day during their lunch break, they gather outside the main academic building, 백양관 (baek yang gwan) wearing their red vests and banging on pots and pans, chanting phrases demanding better terms of employment. Sometimes they even parade around campus. These employees are advocating for themselves because they are facing heavier workloads because of layoffs and are asking for access to basic rights, such as showers. The union has a huge flag and there are often people giving speeches. 

백양관 is actually where I have two of my classes around that time, so I have observed these union protesters for the last six weeks. When the union starts to gather, the security officers of 백양관 become tense and stand at the main entrance in case any union protesters try to go in the building and disrupt the classes going on with their chants and noise. All of the other doors to 백양관 are closed and padlocked during this time. 

However, Yonsei University is one of the three most prestigious universities in South Korea and it surprises me that they have let their workers go on like this for so long. Even worse, three Yonsei University students became fed up with the KPTU’s racket and filed a criminal lawsuit along with three civil lawsuits for invading their right to learn and for traumatizing them.

Yes, the union caused some disruption to student learning, but personally I think that these three students went about this situation in the wrong way, not only with the lawsuit, but also by claiming that the union’s protest was “traumatizing them.” The union is made up of elderly Korean men and women, people’s grandparents, who are too old to be working as hard as they are. “Trauma” is a strong word. Seeing people advocate for their rights should be eye opening, not traumatizing, since it is a peaceful protest. 

Instead of filing a lawsuit, which obviously hasn’t stopped the protesting or made things better for the workers, use your big brain to do something about it.

As a Yonsei student, the university’s title has prestige and power that will gain attention and is able to advocate for those who aren’t taken seriously. Since the lawsuits, there has been much backlash against these three students as being selfish for only caring about their own rights. Many Yonsei students have signed a petition supporting the workers and some Yonsei alumni who became lawyers have provided legal support in combating the lawsuits. With the backing of Yonsei students and alumni, the union has gained some ground, but they still have a long way to go in the struggle for their rights as employees. The university hasn’t been taking care of its workers and the union protesters are rightfully standing up for themselves in the face of unfair treatment. Wouldn’t you do the same thing if you were in their position? 

You mean water doesn’t come with meals?

One of the parts of Chile I did not get used to was the lack of drinking water readily available. There were always bottles to be bought, but while in the US there is free water as the default in any restaurant you visit, this was not the case in Chile. There were a few places where you could ask for tap water and they would bring you a glass, but in general water was only to be bought by the bottle. While this may seem like a small thing, it was different to think of water as a luxury.

The first day I got to Chile, it rained. It rained hard. I wad surprised to hear that this was not common, that Chile had been in a drought for over a decade, and it has been a big problem for the people. It is estimated that as of the end of 2021, of Chile’s population of 19 million, over half lived in areas with “severe water scarcity”, meaning that they did not have enough water for the lives of the people. A water rationing plan has even been announces as a way to ensure access of water to the people of Chile, but this is far from a solution. One of the most basic needs to sustain life, the lack of water an emergency for the people and the land.

I was in the car with my host mom one evening and we drove past a river. She told be that the water used to be much higher, and that now, as we could see from the road, it is almost all dried up. Being in this sort of environment made me think about water in a way that I had never done before, making me both very grateful for the easy public access to water that I have had in the US, and also very worried that this is the state of some parts of the world.

Cultural conversation with the Mapuche 

In Chile, there are two dominant groups: the Chileans and the Mapuche, the indigenous people of the region. On one of our group trips, we went down south to Villaricca. In Villaricca, we attended a traditional Mapuche ceremony with instruments, singing, dancing, and some storytelling. 

When learning about a different place, I often reference the culture of the place I grew up in, Hawai’i. I was talking to one of my professors about the culture of Hawaii and she related it to Chile, where there are the Chileans and the Mapuche. The Mapuche are the indigenous group of the region, and they have their distinct language and customs that have largely been overshadowed by Chileans. If you are Chilean, there are social limits to the way in which you can interact with Mapuche culture. One example is the jewelry they wear. The Mapuche wear large silver jewelry. Silver is said to protect against evil because as it ages it darkens, signifying the evil that has been “caught” by the silver, protecting the wearer from harm. This large specific silver jewelry in not really acceptable to be worn outside of Mapuche culture, considered more cultural appropiation than anything else. Fashion is not just fashion when it is tied to cultural beliefs. Even though there is not a specific rule, there is a social feeling that it is not acceptable. 

In another moment, when we went on a hike through the forest with a Mapuche guide, we learned that each tree is named and has different significance to the people. Not only these, but the interconnectedness of nature, and the reverence the people have for the land. 

Our guide preparing us for the hike up El-Cañi

I really enjoyed learning more about the way of life of the native people around Chile. The perspectives of other cultural groups help me to not only expand my worldview, but also to reflect on my own cultural background.

Cultural Experiences Through Local Food

Seeking to completely immerse myself in the culture of Siena, I obviously have had to experience the cuisine unique to the region. The first day I arrived in Siena I went to a restaurant in the city and asked the waiter for a local specialty. He suggested that I order the pici al ragu. Since I had never had or heard of pici before, I asked him about how it is made and its historical significance for Siena.

Pici is a type of pasta that originated in the local Siena area. It is a simple pasta, made of only water and flour. The dough is then rolled by hand into a 5mm thick roll. Just as it has been prepared for generations, pici must be made by hand. The pasta can be served with a variety of sauces but typically, it is served with ragu.

Although pici is a very simple pasta, its simplicity has a rich history which my waiter explained to me. Pici was historically the everyday pasta for peasants since there were no stores to buy cheap pasta and many did not have money to buy more than the simple ingredients used in pici. It is significant that pici is made without eggs since eggs cost more and were only included in pasta typically served for a special occasion. Further, the word pici comes from the Italian word appicciare which means to stick together. 

Pici has been made by generations and generations of Tuscan locals and today it is a common dish that tourists come seeking when visiting the region. I have already had pici every time that I have been to a restaurant here in Siena and, thus far, I can confidently say that not all pici tastes the same. Although the pasta only requires two ingredients, some cooks have distinguished themselves as pici experts. Overall, I have not had a negative experience with this local dish, and I hope to learn how to make it from an expert prior to leaving Siena. 

Pici al ragu!

Week 1 in An Cheathrú Rua

At the end of last week, we arrived in An Cheathrú Rua in western County Galway and brought the heavy rain with us…oops! It has been a small adjustment to reacquaint myself with the sound of Connacht Irish after hearing the Ulster dialect in Gaoth Dobhair for two weeks, but classes are going well and my new host family is fabulous! There are more students in the house this time and we all sit around a very full and lively dinner table every night while conversing and eating delicious meals.

It occurred to me a few nights ago that I had just eaten warm soup, fresh bread, and pot roast on the last day of July. The day was a bit brisk, so I enjoyed it very much, but it is not something I would generally think to eat during the summer months. Having spent a time in Galway last year, I remember the weather being very similar to what we’re experiencing now with rain, periodic sunbursts, and mild (but somewhat chilly) temperatures. It is significantly cooler, especially with the wind, compared to the dry burning heat that I am accustomed to at this time of year. Lucky for the students in the program, this cooler weather also includes “comfort foods,” which appear to be our host family’s specialty. I have greatly appreciated this form of hospitality and the obvious thought and energy that is involved when preparing each meal. They have made it possible for us (the students staying in the home) to sit down, practice our Irish through mealtime conversation, and spend intentional time with others rather than simply grabbing food to go and eat between the events of the day, which I find myself doing all too often throughout the academic year. Our dinners are events themselves and they have been some of the most fruitful times of learning for me throughout my time here.

The other students and I have also learned that the best way to conclude any meal, especially dinner is with tea and a sweet of some sort! Here in Connemara, the tea is not brought out until the very end of the meal at the same time as dessert. Personally, I have enjoyed drinking absurd amounts of tea throughout the day for years now (heavily influenced by Mom), and will sometimes order tea to eat with my dinner when I go out to eat. However, the post-dinner drinking of tea appears to be quite a solid tradition and one that I do not plan to alter in any way! Whether it is simply a custom sequence of the meal or a practical means of aiding digestion, as a few have stated, it has quickly become my favorite daily ritual during my stays in both Gaoth Dobhair and An Cheathrú Rua.

New Prospectives and Cultural Awareness

Along with traveling to a different country typically comes exposure to diverse attitudes and cultural beliefs. Although my roommates in Siena are not Italian, they are from other European countries (Switzerland and Netherlands) and speak fluent English; therefore, I decided to ask them about their opinion on the United States.

My roommates began by telling me about their trips to the United States. My roommate from the Netherlands told me that he had visited the western region of the United States once and was surprised to find the natural beauty of the country to be plentiful. My roommate from Switzerland also told me about his vacation to Florida, stating that it was a wonderful experience that expanded his cultural awareness.

They prefaced that their opinion on the United States is based on their own experiences in the country and on what they have learned from the news. The first remark that both of my roommates made about the political and economic situation in the United States was their appreciation of the wealth of opportunities and the ease of social mobility. However, they also told me that they dislike the work ethic and what they believe to be “an emphasis on work over life.” 

In terms of pollical policy, they both believe that there are two grave issues in the United States: extreme poverty and healthcare inequalities. During their trips to the United States, they had both encountered “an unusually significant amount of homeless people.” They had a hard time comprehending how such large populations of people could be without a home, especially since it is very rare for them to see a homeless person in their respective countries. My roommate from the Netherlands summarized his opinion on the United States: “while it is possible to become very rich in the United States, it is also unfortunately very easy to be extremely poor and for this, I do not like the system.” 

In addition to the problem with poverty, my roommates identified the healthcare system as an issue. Coming from countries in which healthcare is universal, they were perplexed by the necessity to pay large sums of money for “the basic human need which is healthcare.” They believe that, in the circumstance of healthcare, it is a fault that “physicians and businessmen can profit significantly while the patient suffers financially and physically.” 

My conversation with my roommates has helped me improve my cultural awareness of the situations apparent in the United States, some of which I had not paid much attention to in the past.

From a concert of a local orchestra in the Piazza del Campo

The Unrivaled History and Tradition of Siena

By simply entering the city of Siena during the summer it is hard to miss the local festivities and environment which surround il Palio di Siena. Il Palio di Siena is an annual horse race dating back to medieval times in which the different contrade (sectors of the city) of Siena compete against each other in the Piazza del Campo (center square of the city). The winning contrada receives a Drappellone (a large beautifully painted drape) and has bragging rights throughout the city. Over the past few weeks leading up to il Palio, I have been able to experience how highly the locals of Siena regard il Palio and how loyal they are to their own contrada. As a Sicilian who has not even voyaged out of Sicily while in Italy, I have never had much interest in il Palio. However, being in Siena has ignited a fascination within me and I want to learn more about this local tradition.

To discover more about the history and importance of il Palio, I asked one of my professors, Professore Elia, who is a local of Siena and has a sentimental attachment to the event. Professore Elia told me that although il Palio has a historical significance, the reason why the locals are so passionate about the game is because of the generational pride each local has for their own contrada and the importance of upholding such tradition.

Following my encounter with Professore Elia, I then wanted to ask the opinion of another one of my professors who is not originally from Siena, Professoressa Puma. Professoressa Puma is originally from Agrigento, Sicily but has lived in Siena for over 10 years. Like what Professore Elia said, Professoressa Puma also told me that the people of Siena are incredibly passionate about il Palio; however, unlike the professor from Siena, she does not have such an attachment to il Palio and has a hard time understanding the obsession with the race among the people of Siena even after living here for 10 years. While she does not share the same devotion to il Palio, she has come to appreciate the rich history behind the game. 

From the accounts of my two professors, I have come to realize that, for people without origins in Siena, the historical significance of il Palio is easy to admire while an emotional attachment to the race is a trait unique to locals. Overall, being in the environment of il Palio and having the ability to experience the race firsthand has been surreal. The preservation of the historical traditions has made me feel as if I have traveled back in time to the Middle Ages. I truly believe that the authenticity of il Palio and its traditions are incomparable to anything else, and I am extremely grateful to witness them in person. 

From the ceremony when the race horses are picked and distributed to each contrada
From the trial race the day before il Palio

Learning Step by Step

One of my main goals while being in Italy is to improve my conversational skills in Italian. Outside of school, I have been speaking daily with local Italians. From ordering a cappuccino at the local bar to conversing with local university students, I have been exposing myself to the colloquiums of the Italian language. From my experiences thus far I have come to understand the significance behind some phrases used in daily speech. 

For example, I have learned the meaning behind the phrase ci penso io. Ci penso io may have a direct translation of I think about it but, not everything can be directly translated between languages. The expression is used in discussion to indicate that one speaking will do a task themselves.  I have already begun using this phrase in my speech without even realizing it. This phrase is commonly used daily by all Italians regardless of age and gender.

Another expression I have often heard in conversation is può darsi. Puo darsi is used in discussion when the object of discourse has a probability of happening. While I have primarily heard this phrase while speaking with other younger students, it is also used by all other age groups. I have not utilized this expression as often as ci penso io; however, it has been useful to understand the meaning.

Through my informal conversations with local university students, I have also picked up some Italian slang. For example, when addressing a group, one will say raga. Raga is an abridged version of the term ragazzi meaning guys. I have also noticed this formula in other slang such as fra, short for fratello (brother).  

From my experiences thus far, I have realized that the most efficient way to apprehend a language is not to always perform a word-for-word translation but rather to listen for the context in which certain words are employed.

Chapel of the Duomo di Siena

Pizza, pasta, frutti di mare, lemons, lemons, lemons!

Every region of Italy has specialty foods and Sorrento is no exception. Walking around the markets of Sorrento, there’s on thing that you can’t miss: lemons. Lemons are everywhere! Lemon granitas, lemon pasta, lemon risotto, lemon soap, bucket hats with lemons on them, and, of course, limoncello. Every store in Sorrento has at least one shelf dedicated to lemons. There are even stores that only sell limoncello.

But why are lemons so popular and why are they the food of this region?

Well, the soil and climate provide the perfect conditions for producing juicy lemons. Sorrento lemons are often not the best-looking lemons but they are the best tasting. Due to the incredible lemon-growing conditions, production of lemons is booming. Moreover, the combination of great tasting lemons and the natural beauty of Sorrento’s coastline has transformed Sorrento into a tourist hub, with a brand of lemons. Most clothing stores use lemon prints, all the fridge magnets and shot glasses available either have lemons or lemon trees on them and even the storefronts themselves are often decorated with delicately painted lemons.

In Sorrento, I have tried lemon risotto, limoncello, lemon slices, lemon granitas, a limoncello spritz, lemon and zucchini pasta, lemon infused fish and lemon gelato. I think it is safe to say that I’ve tried my fair share of lemon-based foods. In fact, last week I had the privilege of learning how to make lemon gelato. It was much simpler than I assumed. However, I did learn some important lessons to prevent you from making critical mistakes:

  1. ALWAYS make sure you scratch the lemon’s peel to test the smell. If the peel smells sweet then the lemon shouldn’t be used, but if the peel smells strong and tart, then it’s a good lemon.
  2. Don’t judge a book by its cover: good lemons aren’t always the ones that look the prettiest but are the ones with the best insides.
  3. Is your lemon heavy? If yes, then it’s probably a good lemon.
  4. Always use all the lemon – wasting food is lame!

So now that you know the most important rules when it comes to finding and using lemons for gelato, here’s how to make lemon gelato:

  1. Heat a liter of water with 500g of sugar in a pan until all the sugar has dissolved.
  2. Allow the sugar-water mixture to cool.
  3. Once cooled, add 300g worth of fresh fruit juice and zest.
  4. Stir.
  5. Place in a container in the freezer and leave for a couple of hours.
  6. Remove from the freezer and blend using a hand blender then place back in the freezer for another couple of hours.
  7. Remove from the freezer, blend with a hand blender again and serve.
  8. Enjoy!