Antigua – Summer Language Abroad 2022

Money, money, money

Hola, queridos amigos,

This past week, we had a canícula, which can be (very) loosely translated to the English phrase, “the dog days of summer,” and is a period in the rainy season in which the weather is similar to the summer months of November, December, and January. It was sunny, hot, and dry, which was a breath of relief from the constant rain we experience here. I tried to get my fill of the sun during the week, because I knew that it was not going to last very long. Alas, the canícula is over now, but I am grateful for the time I did have in the sun. I am particularly lucky that I was able to spend even more time in the sun during these past two weekends at the beach and Lake Atitlan. The beach was incredible, especially since it was the third time in my life seeing the ocean. I loved walking along the beach, “swimming in,” i.e., being pushed around by, the waves, and finding different treasures on the shore. I am still finding black sand–black because of volcanic processes that occurred thousands of years ago–in some of my things.

This past weekend, I once again visited Lake Atitlan, this time with an entirely different group. We stayed from Friday night to Sunday morning and spent our time swimming, kayaking, hiking, and swinging in hammocks. I once again have a stomachache from the polluted water, but I do not regret choosing to enjoy my time at the lake instead of sitting on the sidelines. The stomachache will pass, but I may never have another opportunity to swim in one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen.

Swimming in the lake! I am the small head in the water.

Thomas and I walking on a road in the surrounding mountains to get a view of the lake.

I now want to tell you about the quetzal (kets-all), the Guatemalan currency named after the national bird. The exchange rate of quetzales to dollars is 7.5 to 1, which means that everything here is a lot cheaper for me. For example, at a local panderia that is on the way to my school, I can buy a croissant, muffin, or cinnamon roll for 4 quetzales. I’m no mathematician, but I believe that a 4Q croissant translates to a 53 cent croissant. The total cost of my first kayaking trip–including the transportation of the shuttles and boats, the food, and renting the kayaks– was around 550Q, which translates to about 73 dollars. In my mind, that is pretty cheap compared to what it would be in the States. Or again, this past weekend, I stayed at a hostel and ate 6 meals there, which came out to 31 dollars in total. Other nice parts about paying here is that the tip is always included in the price, and the prices are always whole numbers, so I never have to worry about change. It’s all very simple. And cheap. It is so easy, it may even be dangerous, because I feel like I have license to spend a lot more than I normally would in the States.

Speaking of money, I’ve done some haggling here, which is apparently expected when you go shopping in the mercados. It’s a pretty thrilling experience. The key is to stay calm and firm when you offer a lower price, and to stick with the price until the seller lowers his. A friend here told me that he never accepts the initial price of anything offered here because he knows that sellers, especially when they see gringos, make the price higher than it should be and can therefore be talked down from the starting ask. Haggling makes me feel like I’m really living in Guatemala and not just visiting, just like when I bought a Guatemalan newspaper for 3Q and read it to practice my Spanish. Well, I suppose I am still reading it. My Spanish is not so good that I can read a newspaper in a day–at least, not yet.

I do really feel that my Spanish is improving. I had an entire conversation with a (slightly drunk) Guatemalan at my hostel this past weekend. Maybe because we were talking about basic topics, such as places I need to visit in Guatemala or how much he loves to dance, or maybe because he was slightly drunk and so kept repeating himself, was the conversation easy to follow. But I like to think that it was also because my ear and command of the language has improved. In fact, I have noticed this improvement not just when I talk to slightly drunk men but also when I talk to completely sober waitresses, tour guides, shop owners, teachers at the school, or my host family. (Don’t worry Mom, I am not in the habit of talking to drunk men.) I am excited by the small growth I am seeing and am eager to improve even more. I know that I need to practice all the time, and thankfully, the other students with whom I live feel the same way. My Dutch friend and housemate Thomas and I have made an agreement that during the week we are only going to talk Spanish with each other. If one of us lapses into English, we have to pay 10Q to the other person. At the end of my time here (he stays for a few more weeks after I leave), we will go out to dinner and pay with the money we owe each other. I am hoping that the dinner is at a cheap street vendor and not a nice restaurant.

And now, for the food I have eaten here! First off, there is a slight correction I need to make to my last post. I said that enchiladas guatemaltecas are also known as tostadas, but that is false. They are made with tostadas, which are the crispy tortillas that serve as the base of the dish.

Chiles Rellenos: This is a common dish in Mexico as well, though I believe it is more common there to make the dish with chiles picantes rather than chiles pimientos. My chile relleno was not too spicy–making me think it was made with a chile pimiento–and it was filled with meat and vegetables, and then covered in whipped egg whites and fried. I paired it with the creamiest, thickest horchata I have ever had it my life. It was incredible, especially since it accompanied the spicy and savory chile relleno.

Pupusas: these are amazing!! They are disks of corn flour filled with cheese, meats, vegetables, and whatever else and are then fried on the stove. I chose to have one pupusa with queso and loroco (a popular edible flower used in Guatemalan cuisine) and one with El Pastor, pineapple, onion, and cilantro. On the topic of cilantro, you will be happy to know that, after much force-feeding myself the dishes with cilantro, I am less repulsed by it and can even tolerate it. This is a big deal for me, considering that 1) I have hated cilantro with a passion all my life, and 2) many Guatemalan dishes include large amounts of cilantro. It is still not my favorite, but I can now eat a dish with cilantro without having a visceral reaction. I do not even try to avoid it. It’s amazing all the ways I have grown during my time here.

Atol (de elote, con arroz y chocolate o leche): this is a thick, hot drink commonly had for breakfast or in the evening. The flavor of elote is the most traditional flavor (and also my favorite flavor–I really enjoyed the sweetness from the corn, and it was not as overpoweringly sweet as the chocolate flavor), though the other flavors are also common. The flavor I have yet to try–and am most hesitant to try–is the atol blanco: savory and white, with beans floating in it and served with chili powder, it does not sound like a very appealing bebida. We’ll see if I ever get up the courage to try it.

Chalupas: my understanding of this street food is that it is a mix of a quesadilla, taco, and burrito. It is a tortilla filled with meat, cheese, and vegetables, rolled up, and then fried like a quesadilla. I had mine filled with an amazing pork that I have only found at the one late-night street vendor we visited. Just like the rest of the cuisine here, it was served with frijoles.

Finally, I want to end on a more serious note. Last Friday, my teacher told me about the civil war that existed for 36 years in Guatemala and ended in 1996. The end of the civil war was so significant that, although Guatemala received its independence from Spain on September 15, 1921, the date that is engraved on the back of the quetzal is “29 de Diciembre de 1996,” and above this date is written paz, peace. On one side of the war was URNG (translated to “National Guatemalan Revolutionary Unit”), a leftist group often made up of campesinos (farmers/peasants), and on the other side was the government of Guatemala. An estimated 200,000 people died in the war, and 40,000 “disappeared,” a statistic just as horrifying as the deaths, if not more so. This civil war is considered the bloodiest cold war conflict to occur in Latin America, and after hearing some of the stories my teacher related, there is no doubt in my mind that this is the case. Although this history is difficult to learn about, it is immensely important that I do learn it. It has formed a country and people that I have truly grown to love. Guatemala is far from perfect, but I would not trade my time here for an experience in a first world country.

This is one quetzal. Note the date at the bottom.

More pictures:

Teaser for next time: me feeding a cow at a farm we went to on our day off!

So far, three people in my house have gotten COVID during their time here, and the number of COVID patients is on the rise in Guatemala. I have been here a month already and so far have avoided it. Let’s hope my luck holds for another month!

Un abrazo,

Julieta

I’ve seen a volcano erupt!

Hola hola!

First off, I apologize that the videos did not work in the first post! To make up for it, here is a picture of me roasting a marshmallow over a hot spot at Pacaya. There is a picture of Carlo below.

A lot has happened since I last posted. I am learning so much in my classes and am very grateful that my teachers address my specific weaknesses and confusions. I am especially grateful that much of class time is spent in conversation, which is exactly what I need. For example, my classmates and I had an interesting conversation with my teacher about the different cultures of the United States and Guatemala. My teacher told us that one thing that surprises her about our culture is how casual we are when we talk to our parents or grandparents. Considering that my teacher is extremely progressive, this comment came as a surprise and was therefore more impactful for me. Even though she wants to get rid of many aspects of traditional Guatemalan culture, she is still shocked that Americans can be so casual and even disrespectful to their elders. Our conversation has made me think about how I treat my parents, grandparents, professors, and other adults in my life.

I wish that I talked more in Spanish outside of class, but it is difficult to talk in Spanish with the other English-speaking students and volunteers. However, a few new people have joined my host family–a med student from the Netherlands and a couple from northern California–and they are encouraging those of us living together to speak in Spanish at dinner. I am excited to have a chance to practice at home not just with my host family but with the other students as well.

I went kayaking two Sundays ago in lake Atitlan, and I do believe that it was one of the best days of my life. It was a beautiful day, and the views were stunning. I may have ingested some bacteria from the lake, but the trip was worth the stomachache. I went with some incredible and very different people from me, and I was very sad to see them leave this past weekend. One thing that has already been wonderful and difficult about this trip is that I am meeting so many amazing people for such a brief period of time. Perhaps its the nature of being in a foreign country and traveling together, but everyone here quickly becomes close.

Speaking of people I love and may not ever again see in my life, my friend Manu and I hiked the dormant volcano Acetanango this past weekend. Manu left early this morning, and though we have made several plans to visit each other and travel together, I simply do not know if I will ever see her again. I am so thankful for the time I have had with her.

After seeing many people around the city eating this orange treat every day, Manu and I decided to try the popular mango ice cream from a street cart last Friday.

Although many people said beforehand that the hike was extremely difficult, I did not find it all that hard. I was always at the front of our group of 23 hikers, 16 porters hired to carry the backpacks of 16 hikers, and 3 guides. There were some challenging sections, but they were not as difficult as some hikes I have been on in Colorado. The hike, like lake Atitlan, was also stunning. Even though it was foggy as we climbed up on Saturday, the scenery we could see was lush and bright green, completely different from my Rockies. At 4:30 on Sunday morning, I left our campsite and hiked to the summit of Acetanango with three other hikers and one guide. It was breathtaking. The wind was strong and cold and the sunrise was incredible, all of which added to the epic feeling of reaching the top of a volcano. From the summit and from the campsite, we were able to see the very active volcano Fuego, which erupted multiple times while we were there. To top it all off, I met some amazing and slightly crazy people on the hike. There was a group of 10 from New York who brought with them a ton of alcohol and drugs, so they made the hike and the overnight stay interesting. None of them could remember my name, so they all called me Colorado instead. I was quite proud of my nickname.

The sunrise over the volcano Agua from our campsite.

I made it to the summit! This is me, featuring my new favorite pair of pants that Manu bought for me at a second hand store, in front of Fuego.

My hike up Acetanango made me grateful for the little but noticeable progress I have made in my Spanish. I was sometimes called on to speak to our Guatemalan guides when hikers had different questions, and I was even able to carry small conversations with the guides. The little conversations I had made me even more desirous and determined to learn Spanish, because I would have liked to have had more substantial conversations with our guides.

This is Jerson, one of our guides, as we take a break. Look how green it is!

I did not attend cooking class or salsa dancing class last week, but I did go to the soccer game Thursday afternoon. I was really looking to forward to it, but it was a disappointment. I think I will have words with whoever allowed all the guys who know how to play soccer to form their own teams and subsequently monopolize the playing time and field. Next time I go, I will be sure to allow the girls, myself included, to have more playing time. However, I went salsa dancing at a salsa bar that night, and that made up for it. I am pretty bad at salsa, but when I dance with someone who knows what he is doing, it is really enjoyable. I love the culture of salsa dancing here and hope that I can continue to learn once I return to the States. Sadly, I do not have a great picture of the salsa bar. If I am ever able to post videos, I will post one that I have of the live band and the dancing.

I do have an update on the Guatemalan novio, surprisingly enough. Carlo is convinced that I am in love with his older brother, Adriano, and he and the entire family make fun of us. Here’s the story: Adriano went to a party two Saturday nights ago and wore a suit, and so I and the rest of the people at the table may I add said that he looked very handsome. I guess Carlo only heard–or only wanted to hear–me say that Adriano looked good in a suit, and from then on he’s said that I am Adriano’s novio and am going to marry Adriano in three years. (Don’t ask about the timeline. I also don’t know why it will happen in three years.) Carlo has also said that he wants me to be his cuñada, which means sister-in-law, and stay with his family. I am taking this situation as a compliment, even though I am sometimes very flustered because I cannot always understand what my host family is saying. I do know for sure that my host mom and dad are always laughing at me, and the fact that I blush very easily makes it worse. What’s more, Adriano may actually have a crush on me and has even asked me to go out with him. This is quite an uncomfortable situation for me, especially since I have to live six more weeks with them. I’m happy, however, that I have been placed with a family that has accepted me so completely that they joke (or maybe don’t joke?) about me literally joining the family.

Me and my first roommate, Angie, with our host family. As you can see, Carlo is really pushing the love.

Here’s a fun fact about Guatemala: there are 25 languages total spoken here. Of these, 22 are Mayan, 1 is Xinca, 1 is Garifuna, and 1 is Spanish. With stats like these, it’s not surprising that 40% of the population in Guatemala is indigenous Mayan. Moreover, as part of the school curriculums here, students must study a Mayan language.

I’ll end my post with some pictures of the food I have eaten.

Enchilada Guatemalteca: also known as the tostada, this is the second street food I have bought here. It was both delicious and very difficult to eat. The tostada is a typical Guatemalan food that consists of a fried tortilla (it looks like a big tortilla chip) as its base and is topped with guacamole, lettuce, and a variety of salads and sauces. I chose to get a vegetarian one (I’m not yet brave enough to buy meat from a street vendor), which consisted of a beet salad, another mystery salad, onions, cilantro, cojita cheese, and an amazing sauce.

Typical Guatemalan breakfast: this consists of beans, eggs, fried plantains, tortillas, and–if you’re lucky–avocado. My host mom often makes us a simplified version (just frijoles y huevos, the two staples of the Guatemalan diet) for dinner. At nearly every restaurant I have been to that serves breakfast, desayuno tipico is offered. It has yet to disappoint.

There is so much more I could say, but this is already getting long, and I also promised Carlo that I would play with him after I finished writing this post. I hope you are all doing well! Remember to be respectful to your parents.

Juliet

Antigua, here I come!

¡Hola, mis amigos!

From June 3 to July 31, I will be living in Antigua, Guatemala, taking Spanish classes and traveling around the city and–with any luck–the country. My classes will be in groups and one-on-one, and I and other students in the program will be staying with a host family. I am looking forward to meeting many amazing people who are both studying the language and are native speakers! Besides Spanish classes, I hope to take cooking and salsa dancing classes, hike in the surrounding mountains, and explore the nooks and crannies of the small but beautiful city of Antigua.

I am filled with excitement–and a bit of trepidation–as I look forward to my time in Antigua. I grew up listening to my parents’ stories of their times abroad, and if there’s one thing I’ve learned, it’s that I cannot prepare myself for the challenges that will inevitably occur as I immerse myself in a new culture. On top of being thrown into a new language, I will be exposed to different social standards, new foods, un-American flexibility in timeliness, and a distinct environment. All of these factors will challenge me to absorb the culture in ways that no classroom–no matter how much we read various essays and listen to Latino music–can provide.

Being immersed in a foreign language means more than picking up and using an entirely new vocabulary (though that is one massive benefit of an immersion experience). Every language carries cultural connotations that are inseparable from it, yet can only be recognized in their country of origin. As a small example, slang, the words and phrases that arise from the language’s respective culture, is something that I will only be able to pick up among native Spanish-speakers. No textbook can truly teach me the current slang, even though slang is just as much a part of the language as proper conjugations and definite articles are. Living in Guatemala will therefore expose me not just to the language but also to the culture that is associated with it.

As I learn about the culture of Guatemala, I will be able to dive into its history, food, and the lifestyles of its inhabitants. I am thrilled to be living with a host family for an extended period of time in Antigua because my stay will give me a true sense of who the people are, not just a list of fun facts about the country. I am also excited to explore the region surrounding Antigua, which consists of mountains and (active!) volcanoes. A native of Colorado, I am no stranger to mountains and love to hike. These mountains, however, will undoubtably be very different from my familiar Rockies, so I cannot wait to have many adventures in them.

Of course, during these adventures, I will be using–and more importantly, misusing–my Spanish-speaking abilities. These mistakes will become opportunities for me to develop and absorb the language. Even if I decided to barely speak at all–which I assure you I will not do–I would still have to speak to address simple needs I might have, forcing me to expand my vocabulary and use difficult grammatical structures. Besides my own use of Spanish, I will be listening and responding to Spanish all around me. I will not initially understand everything and will even start out understanding very little, but as time goes on, I am sure that I will pick out words and phrases more intuitively. The beauty of immersion is that I will be learning and practicing Spanish constantly, whether I am in the classroom, at a restaurant, or with my host family and new friends. By the end of the summer, my Spanish will have improved exponentially!

These are the hopes and goals for my summer. Next time you hear from me, I will actually be living what I laid out in this post! I can’t wait to share all my stories with you as I embark on this great adventure in the beautiful country of Guatemala. (I promise there will be many pictures in my subsequent posts!)

¡Te veré en Antigua!

Juliet