There is a bit of a debate in the community of Siena regarding the Palio event. This tradition dates back to medieval times and remains very integral to Sienese culture. This horse race occurs twice a year, on the second of July and on the sixteenth of August. Its duration is ninety seconds, and features horses representing ten of the seventeen Sienese contrade. The festivities, however, precede and follow each Palio for weeks. The preparation for this race entails arranging wooden posts around the shell-form of the Piazza del Campo, forming an enclosed space for spectators for the Palio Day, as well as the layering of dirt on the “track” so that the horses may run on dirt and not on the hard pavement.
The experience of living in Siena leading up to, through, and after the July Palio was something incredible. I was very moved by the rich atmosphere in the air for weeks on end, the visible and unmistakable excitement of most Sienese residents. The great pride many carry for their contrade is quite beautiful and you could even witness a range of emotions while walking through the narrow streets.
That said, I present the debate I have heard mentioned on several occasions by members of the Dante Alighieri School of Siena and by those in the community. Some imply that perhaps this tradition should not continue, that this horse race is immoral and inhumane and should no longer persist. It is hard for me to take a stance on this because I do not live in Siena and cannot speak to the conditions of the horses.
I will say that I noted a palpable reverence of each horse assigned to each contrada, and have heard people discuss how much the horse is loved by the contrada as even more important and admirable than the fantino (jockey). On Wednesday, June 29, around 2:00pm, L’assegnazione dei cavalli took place. This is when the names of the various contrade are called at random to be assigned to certain horses that will partake in the race. The experience was something incredible, as each contrada, upon hearing itself assigned to the horse currently before the Palazzo Pubblico, would run eagerly to the horse and follow it with enthusiasm and pride out of the piazza in a ceremonial manner.
I also have heard from a Sienese community member that one opponent to the Palio’s continuation said the horses were forced to run on pavement, which would be cruel. However, this was somewhat of an uninformed statement to make, because as is documented on the Internet and in photos, and as I have seen myself for the weeks around the Palio, the Piazza comes to be covered with sand as to make it an appropriate track for the event.
I believe that this is a very complex issue. As an outsider, I find it difficult to form an educated opinion. I can respect both sides of this argument, and I appreciate the opportunity to learn more about different opinions of the Palio from the perspective of the Sienese community.