When my mom and my sister picked me up from the airport, I was immediately met with the smell of In-n-Out – I knew I was home. After enjoying some of In-n-Out’s classic “animal fries,” I was still processing that I was no longer in France. The past few days at home have been a lot of me correcting my “bonjour” and “merci” to “hello” and “thank you” (which I am still in the process of adjusting to) and reflecting on the incredible summer of learning French. Looking back into my first expectations of the summer, I am really delighted to see that I have strengthened my confidence in speaking French and have gained so many new perspectives on lifestyles, humanitarian assistance, policy issues, or the time that is best to eat dinner.
In terms of the language acquisition process, I have had the privilege of having incredible teachers who have really underscored for me how important dialogue and constant conversation in French is. Before this summer, I had certainly been much more calculated in how I would speak when I would try to speak in French, however that is not how language works – it is truly more of a flow of words and the grammar and vocabulary are best learned when *attempting* to speak fluidly and not let my fear of making mistakes while speaking French inhibit my flow of conversation. In addition, through this language acquisition process, I believe that I have strengthened my ability to ask people for help while struggling to come up with a certain vocabulary word, or get validation for the correct pronunciation or grammatical structure.
Having the opportunity with the SLA grant to live in France for two months has opened so many doors for me and has really helped me grow into a person who is less fearful of asking for help and is eager to meet people from all over the world. With meeting new people, I have particularly seen the power of language bringing people together and forming a closer connection. In the hostel and in my French school, I would witness my friends where English is not their first language immediately light up when they met someone who shared the same native language. Seeing this connection has further strengthened my desire to continue learning French, and hopefully expand my language acquisition to new languages! I cannot thank the SLA grant and donors enough for providing me with this experience to practice French and immerse myself in French culture!
This is typically the response I receive upon telling people where I’m from — a lovely French rendition of Tupac’s “California Love.” Despite studying in a surf town, that is often referred to as “French California,” many locals are often excited when I share where I am from.
Throughout my time studying in France, I have really enjoyed testing people’s different reactions to when I say I am from America, compared to saying I am from California. The difference is quite stark from every introduction I’ve made. When I say I’m from America, oftentimes I am met with an apology, or I am met with a comment regarding fast food, Donald Trump, gun violence, or reproductive rights. Oftentimes when I share that I am from America, I will be met with “Oh! The country where guns have more rights than women!” Whereas when I say I am from California, I am often met with people sharing how they would love to visit or ask about LA, San Francisco, and beaches.
For my first day in French class, my afternoon course was discussing climate change and how each of the student’s respective countries were responding to climate change. The majority of the class was spent discussing the gravity of Donald Trump pulling out of the Paris Climate Agreement and in one of our discussion activities, we used Donald Trump as a person to imagine speaking to if we needed to try to educate a person on the serious threat of climate change. As the only American in my class, it was rather comforting to see that each of the students was absolutely aghast at the idea of a president of a leading nation not taking climate change seriously.
Similarly, I have been staying in an ecological surf hostel, with an emphasis on educating the guests of the hostel how to lead a sustainable life and minimize our carbon footprint. With the many guests coming through the hostel, I have met many French people who come from all over the country, and each time, I have been met with a similar wariness of America’s response to climate change. Granted, I have been staying in a surf town that is very focused on having a sustainable, environmental-friendly lifestyle, however I have found a rather consistent reaction in terms of America and climate change, from the friends I have made from different regions in France.
In addition to climate change, with the overturning of Roe v. Wade, reproductive rights and women’s rights have been in the forefront of people’s perceptions of America. When I went to one of the local pharmacies, the pharmacist asked where I was from (hinting that my French accent still has some room for improvement…) and I told her that I was from the United States. She looked a bit alarmed, then asked which state I was from, and when I told her California, she let out a sigh of relief. I inquired to her sigh of relief, and she was saying how she was very worried for the United States with the overturning of Roe v. Wade. Discussing more, she shared how she is so glad that I live in California, telling me that “women’s rights are respected there.” I then shared that I go to school in Indiana and she expressed concern, and I was rather surprised to see how closely some people followed US human rights news, to the point where they know the regional responses. However, with the recent overturning of Roe v. Wade, many French people have expressed their concern and awareness of Indiana’s prevalence in the media when it comes to reproductive justice and access to health care. The pharmacist proceeded to share how it is necessary to “manifester” (in a very French fashion, where protests are strongly integrated into their politically participatory culture), to ensure that human rights are protected in the US. I shared how there have been many protests and movements, however with the current conservative Supreme Court, it will be difficult to efficiently restore protection of reproductive rights. She then explained how in France, reproductive healthcare is very easily accessible to French citizens. With the reversal of Roe v. Wade, I have been met with very similar reactions from many French people I have met, as well as other international students in my French school and in my hostel.
I got the news alert that Roe v. Wade had been officially overturned while I was on the beach with my friends, who also received the news at the same time. Immediately, they all were hugging and consoling me, expressing how scary that it is that the US, seen as a leading nation, had taken such a dramatic regression in basic human rights. Many of my friends expressed their concern with the influence this might have internationally with the significant influence that the US has a leading power. So far, in all of my interactions with French people, they describe the US’s decision to regress in human rights as “tellement fou,” or completely crazy. While in the United States discussing abortion and reproductive rights has evolved into a polarizing, contentious topic, in my conversations in France, it has been something that is often discussed in everyday conversation. Similarly, many of the people I have met internationally have inquired about ways to help support reproductive rights in America, asking for links to abortion funds, and these responses are very different to the often polarizing nature of discussing reproductive rights in American society.
I am incredibly grateful that I have been given the opportunity to have these conversations and learn more about international views of America. I really have valued this experience in hearing authentic opinions of the perceptions of America, and have found this summer incredibly gratifying in developing a broader awareness of how the United States can be viewed.
Hopla! This has to be one of my favorite French sayings so far. It sounds so enthusiastic and whimsical. It’s a phrase I hear everyday, whether from my French teachers, the hostel owners, or the woman who works in the boulangerie I regularly frequent. From conversations with my French friends, I have found that “hop la!” can essentially be used to express a change in conversation, exasperation, or just make noise in response to practically anything (I especially hear it when people accidentally trip). Put simply, “hopla” essentially brings attention to something that is happening. For instance, while I am cooking in the hostel I often will drop something, so I will quickly be met with “hopla!,” almost like a French version of “Opa!” with a similar sound and a similar meaning.
At the Fêtes de Bayonne, there are many traditional Basque events on display, including karrikaldi, and my friends and I were able to catch the opening of the dances where the local youth baton throw in traditional Basque wear. When a baton would slip through someone’s hand, throughout the crowd you could hear a lot of “hopla!”
Another one of my favorites has to be “ouf!” which I initially related to the English “oof!” to express that something unfortunate might have happened. However, “ouf” is the inverse of “fou” to express the same meaning – crazy. When I surf with my French friends, I’ll often hear “les vagues sont ouf,” indicating that the waves are “crazy” good. From discussing with my French friends, “ouf” is essentially the equivalent of the positive connotation of “sick.”
“Ouf” and “hop la” have been some interesting sayings that I haven’t heard in my previous French classes, until I started noticing my French teacher saying “hopla!” very frequently, along with “du coup” and “en fait.” “Du coup” is intended to mean “also” or “so” but is often used as a filler word, similar to the usefulness of the interjection of “like” into the middle of sentences. “En fait” is another phrase I try to weave into my conversations with French speakers to sound more French, because it is heavily used by the French as well, meaning “actually.”
In a similar vein to “hopla!,” I often hear the utterances of “tak tak tak” when my French friends or cashiers are completing certain tasks. As I was writing this blog post, I was working in a café by my school as I heard the cashier ringing someone up, and as he was typing in their order, it was accompanied by “tak tak tak.” I have loved living in France to really start noticing the certain French sayings that often don’t directly translate into English, such as “tak tak tak.” I have started noticing myself absentmindedly muttering “tak tak tak,” along with “hopla,” which really helps me see the benefits of fully immersing myself in the French language and culture. While constantly speaking in French has certainly been mentally strenuous at times, it is certainly exciting to see the brain fatigue pay off by absorbing French habits.
Staying in a hostel has been full of “bonjour!” and “au revoir!” almost everyday, with new people coming and going, some staying for 3 weeks, while others stay for 3 nights. It has been really enriching staying in such a multicultural environment, where I have met people from all over the world from all walks of life. Along with that comes plenty of delicious food! Nami House, the hostel I have been staying at, hosts barbecues about each week, where everyone in the hostel brings something to share in the barbecue, while sharing how meals are typically prepared and eaten in their country.
The owners of the hostel also help ensure the guests in the hostel are immersed in French culture, so we will typically start with apéro, about an hour or so before we begin dinner. Apéro is a time where we all convene for a light snack or drinks and we will typically be snacking as we prepare our meals that we are sharing with the hostel. After apéro, we begin dinner, which in typical French fashion, typically will last around 2 hours or so. The long dinners are something I really value about French culture where it is a priority to join around a nice meal without any pressure of time, just enjoying each other’s company. I hope that this will be something I bring back to the states, where oftentimes I’d fall in the habit of keeping dinners with friends and family always less than an hour, typically more around 30 minutes or so. However, the emphasis on a non-rushed dinner provides a sense of calm in a hectic life.
The taloa de chevre came with roasted potatoes, lettuce, onions, and a slice of cheese as the side dishese.
In addition to enjoying French and international cuisine at the hostel, I have been to Bidart, a traditional Basque town, about a 45 minute bike ride from Anglet (which for my friend and I took about an hour and a half because it is quite a hilly coastal ride!) In Bidart, there is a lovely Basque market in the town square, surrounded by the picturesque white buildings with red shutters, in typical Basque fashion. My friend and I found a lovely restaurant in the middle of the town square, with a great view of the Bidart outdoor market. We ordered a taloa de chevre, which, as my waiter put it, a Basque version of fajitas. I was expecting some grilled sliced veggies with some sort of twist. To my pleasant surprise, I received a corn tortilla full of a round of goat cheese. I was slightly shocked to receive a tortilla decorated solely with some warmed goat cheese and calling that “fajitas” but I had absolutely no complaints. After discussing with the server further, I discovered that taloa is a popular street dish in the Basque Country. Taloa is a type of corn tortilla, with an interesting history of the native Basque Country corn, Grand Roux corn. In the 16th century, Grand Roux corn was a staple in the local diet, and was believed to have disappeared at the beginning of the 20th century. However, Grand Roux corn was rediscovered in the 1990s in a convent in Basque Country and was reintroduced into the French Basque diet and culture. In discussion with my friend from the Basque Country, he attested that taloa continues to be a staple in the Basque Country and is typically found in markets and festivals from street vendors.
June 21st: the longest day of the year in the Northern Hemisphere and the day where France fully maximizes this extended daylight. France utilizes this longest day by filling it with local music, artists, bands, and plenty of dancing for the Fête de la Musique. My French friends described this incredible spectacle as streets lined with local artists, local marching bands decorating the streets, and plenty of Brazilians doing capoeira at any corner, and they did not disappoint!
There are many Brazilians who perform capoeira, and there was no shortage of capoeira at the Fête de la Musique in Bayonne! Speaking with Vinicius, one of my friends who works at my hostel, is from Sao Paolo, Brazil, and he shared how when he was in high school, he was also taught how to dance capoeira, which is a common after-school activity. It is so incredible to watch these performers defy gravity!
Being located in the Basque Country, there was so much Basque culture on display, with various bands donning the iconic white t-shirt and red bandana wrapped around their necks, with drums matching the red/white color contrast.
Fête de la Musique is a national French holiday where in every area of France, the whole day is dedicated to enjoying local artists and filling the longest day of the year with community and dancing. Throughout France you can find masses of people taking to the streets and enjoying local music and festivities.
When discussing with a French rugby player staying at my hostel, he kept saying “merci Jack Lang!” while we were sharing our experiences at the Fête de la Musique, which he credited the development of this world music day to the Minister of Culture, Jack Lang, in 1981. From the tourism office in Anglet, I learned that Fête de la Musique has become an international success, spreading to over 120 countries around the world that celebrate accessibility to music. From my conversations with the tourism office and my French friends, I have learned that, particularly in the Basque Country in France, there is great emphasis on gathering in community for dancing and music.
Within the Basque Country, there is a debate about which city is best for the Fête de la Musique. My French teacher, who has grown up in Anglet, was a huge advocate of the Bayonne festival, and I am grateful for that, because Bayonne is a more traditional Basque city, with beautiful architecture and two rivers running through. In this picture above, the band is playing along one of the rivers!
On June 21st, I navigated the public transport alongside friends from my language school and from my hostel, practicing our French as we attempted to find our way back to the right bus after initially taking the bus in the opposite direction. While it prolonged our journey to the Fete de la Musique, it certainly helped us practice our French! Once we made it to the city of Bayonne, we walked along the river, following a boat that was chugging along towards the sound of music.
We walked along the cobblestone streets and were met with our first performance, a small tent set up along the river with a band singing quite a diverse selection of music, from traditional French songs, to “Royals” by Lorde. We enjoyed a few songs at the first tent, and then after sharing some dances with locals, we carried on to the center where there was a large square, with different corners of the square featuring local artists and dancers, and a large stage on another end of the square. The origins of Fête de la Musique come from a desire to bring together musicians from professionals to amateurs to light up the street with song and dance. For the program for Fête de la Musique in Bayonne, I saw this played out, with amateur artists garnering large crowds in different streets, and professional performers being featured on stages later into the night. In my conversations with passersby, everyone seemed very proud of this tradition to celebrate music from all over the world, and dedicating a day to appreciating the community that music brings.
As the night progressed, I had had many conversations with various locals who expressed how the Fete de la Musique was their “jour préféré de l’année!” expressing how this day dedicated to music was their favorite day of the year! I can absolutely see why, as it is an excellent way to explore new types of music, dance with friends, and in my case, practice some French in expressing our love for the performers! I am already trying to plan my return to France around June 21st so I can relive this music-filled day!
While my French courses in the US have been very rewarding and challenging by being surrounded by other peers who are eager to learn the French language, I am excited to be immersed in the French language. Studying in France provides greater accessibility to being surrounded by French and pushed to integrate French into my daily tasks, such as navigating the grocery store. I believe that with total language immersion I will gain confidence in my French-speaking ability, while learning the less formal, everyday nuances to the French language. In addition, I hope that being immersed with native French speakers will aid my development of a better French accent, to hopefully allow for more effective communication.
During my time in Biarritz, I will be using French to volunteer alongside a beach cleanup group to improve my ability to discuss the climate crisis in French. I am excited to simultaneously learn from my peers in navigating different approaches to addressing the climate crisis and finding ways to lead a more sustainable life, while also recognizing my own assumptions that I have from living in the US regarding sustainability. While in Paris, I will be volunteering alongside refugees in different sports and leisure activities, where we will help each other practice French. I am looking forward to using French as a medium for building relationships and learning to communicate in regards to migration and humanitarian issues. Through my study of the French language, I hope to strengthen my ability to communicate with a greater population. In order to build these strong connections and have a mutual learning experience, I am eager to strengthen my French skills and I am excited for the opportunity through SLA to hone in on my French skills.
