France – Summer Language Abroad 2022

Perceptions of America

“California…knows how to party”

This is typically the response I receive upon telling people where I’m from — a lovely French rendition of Tupac’s “California Love.” Despite studying in a surf town, that is often referred to as “French California,” many locals are often excited when I share where I am from.

Throughout my time studying in France, I have really enjoyed testing people’s different reactions to when I say I am from America, compared to saying I am from California. The difference is quite stark from every introduction I’ve made. When I say I’m from America, oftentimes I am met with an apology, or I am met with a comment regarding fast food, Donald Trump, gun violence, or reproductive rights. Oftentimes when I share that I am from America, I will be met with “Oh! The country where guns have more rights than women!” Whereas when I say I am from California, I am often met with people sharing how they would love to visit or ask about LA, San Francisco, and beaches.

For my first day in French class, my afternoon course was discussing climate change and how each of the student’s respective countries were responding to climate change. The majority of the class was spent discussing the gravity of Donald Trump pulling out of the Paris Climate Agreement and in one of our discussion activities, we used Donald Trump as a person to imagine speaking to if we needed to try to educate a person on the serious threat of climate change. As the only American in my class, it was rather comforting to see that each of the students was absolutely aghast at the idea of a president of a leading nation not taking climate change seriously.

Similarly, I have been staying in an ecological surf hostel, with an emphasis on educating the guests of the hostel how to lead a sustainable life and minimize our carbon footprint. With the many guests coming through the hostel, I have met many French people who come from all over the country, and each time, I have been met with a similar wariness of America’s response to climate change. Granted, I have been staying in a surf town that is very focused on having a sustainable, environmental-friendly lifestyle, however I have found a rather consistent reaction in terms of America and climate change, from the friends I have made from different regions in France.

In addition to climate change, with the overturning of Roe v. Wade, reproductive rights and women’s rights have been in the forefront of people’s perceptions of America. When I went to one of the local pharmacies, the pharmacist asked where I was from (hinting that my French accent still has some room for improvement…) and I told her that I was from the United States. She looked a bit alarmed, then asked which state I was from, and when I told her California, she let out a sigh of relief. I inquired to her sigh of relief, and she was saying how she was very worried for the United States with the overturning of Roe v. Wade. Discussing more, she shared how she is so glad that I live in California, telling me that “women’s rights are respected there.” I then shared that I go to school in Indiana and she expressed concern, and I was rather surprised to see how closely some people followed US human rights news, to the point where they know the regional responses. However, with the recent overturning of Roe v. Wade, many French people have expressed their concern and awareness of Indiana’s prevalence in the media when it comes to reproductive justice and access to health care. The pharmacist proceeded to share how it is necessary to “manifester” (in a very French fashion, where protests are strongly integrated into their politically participatory culture), to ensure that human rights are protected in the US. I shared how there have been many protests and movements, however with the current conservative Supreme Court, it will be difficult to efficiently restore protection of reproductive rights. She then explained how in France, reproductive healthcare is very easily accessible to French citizens. With the reversal of Roe v. Wade, I have been met with very similar reactions from many French people I have met, as well as other international students in my French school and in my hostel.

I got the news alert that Roe v. Wade had been officially overturned while I was on the beach with my friends, who also received the news at the same time. Immediately, they all were hugging and consoling me, expressing how scary that it is that the US, seen as a leading nation, had taken such a dramatic regression in basic human rights. Many of my friends expressed their concern with the influence this might have internationally with the significant influence that the US has a leading power. So far, in all of my interactions with French people, they describe the US’s decision to regress in human rights as “tellement fou,” or completely crazy. While in the United States discussing abortion and reproductive rights has evolved into a polarizing, contentious topic, in my conversations in France, it has been something that is often discussed in everyday conversation. Similarly, many of the people I have met internationally have inquired about ways to help support reproductive rights in America, asking for links to abortion funds, and these responses are very different to the often polarizing nature of discussing reproductive rights in American society.

I am incredibly grateful that I have been given the opportunity to have these conversations and learn more about international views of America. I really have valued this experience in hearing authentic opinions of the perceptions of America, and have found this summer incredibly gratifying in developing a broader awareness of how the United States can be viewed.

Post-trip reflection

My French experience was not a culture shock. This is an important takeaway. I am European, and I have been to France before many times, so I was not shocked or too surprised by the things I saw or experienced.

Yet, I discovered that behind a shallow surface, there are so many things I didn’t expect or didn’t understand before. The French culture was not as clear and obvious as it seemed from the start, and I loved that I was able to learn that from the inside.

I feel like with every extra word and new phrase, I learned more about the way people think and reflect. The words highlighted the logic of the French people, their ways of looking at things, and their overall perceptions of the world. It felt like with the language, I was able to get a new identity for myself, a French version of my personality that could think and see the world through the prism of the French language and culture. It made me richer and happier.

The first time I had a dream in French was very memorable. The dream was very funny, and the French in it was not too advanced, but it was a French conversation anyways, and I dreamed in it. I dreamed about the mustard, or la moutarde, and the French fighting over it because I remembered my professor’s joke over how French people would obsess and complain if there was no mustard.

I don’t like mustard, but I liked the French and France, and I am happy I got to experience what I experienced. The world gets tiny and welcoming when you know how to communicate with it.

Representation in France

A fellow classmate, an Italian girl, and I had a conversation on representation in politics in our respective countries. I told her that Ukraine had a very high representation of people of different ethnicities and origins in our parliament, and it was common to see people with non-Ukrainian last names as important public figures. It was also true for people coming from diverse religious backgrounds.

In Italy, Clara said, the situation was different. Parties mostly consisted of white Italians, and it was rare to see an immigrant or a person who is not an ethnic Italian in national politics. Clara herself comes from the German-speaking part of Italy as she is a part of the Austrian community. She told me she didn’t feel particularly represented in Italy on the national scale.

How diverse is Europe and France in particular?

We asked our professor about representation in France. Was it easy to be non-French born and yet, become an influential political figure? Are there many immigrants who, after obtaining citizenship, became visible and recognized?

Our professor was skeptical.

Yes, there was representation, he said, and yes, there were people of diverse origins in France who made it really big. There were lots of French politicians of Algerian, Senegalese or other origins, and the same was true for arts, education, and other spheres.

The problem was, however, that to get to their current point, they had to work three times as hard as white French people born and raised in France. Their success happened in spite of things, and not because they received a lot of encouragement. Some French complained that there was positive discrimination in the country, and the reason that some immigrant-born people got successful was because they were unjustly favored. So there was stigma, prejudice, and misunderstanding.

That was the reason that far right radicals were getting so much power in the country recently. Antisemitism and anti-immigration became very big talking points which aim to discredit the achievements made by diverse communities. Cultural pluralism is viewed as a sin by some of these right wing groups as they believe that only ethnic French people should live in France, hence they can only speak French at home and follow what they consider traditional French values.

I noticed the racial problems in France early on my arrival here. There are lots of issues when it comes to equality and representation of the African French community, for example, and these issues are translated into politics. I worry about what lies ahead for France and the rest of Europe. It is a beautiful experience to learn the French language, but it also uncovers lots of deeper challenges within French society.

Hopla!

Hopla! This has to be one of my favorite French sayings so far. It sounds so enthusiastic and whimsical. It’s a phrase I hear everyday, whether from my French teachers, the hostel owners, or the woman who works in the boulangerie I regularly frequent. From conversations with my French friends, I have found that “hop la!” can essentially be used to express a change in conversation, exasperation, or just make noise in response to practically anything (I especially hear it when people accidentally trip). Put simply, “hopla” essentially brings attention to something that is happening. For instance, while I am cooking in the hostel I often will drop something, so I will quickly be met with “hopla!,” almost like a French version of “Opa!” with a similar sound and a similar meaning.

At the Fêtes de Bayonne, there are many traditional Basque events on display, including karrikaldi, and my friends and I were able to catch the opening of the dances where the local youth baton throw in traditional Basque wear. When a baton would slip through someone’s hand, throughout the crowd you could hear a lot of “hopla!”

Another one of my favorites has to be “ouf!” which I initially related to the English “oof!” to express that something unfortunate might have happened. However, “ouf” is the inverse of “fou” to express the same meaning – crazy. When I surf with my French friends, I’ll often hear “les vagues sont ouf,” indicating that the waves are “crazy” good. From discussing with my French friends, “ouf” is essentially the equivalent of the positive connotation of “sick.”

“Ouf” and “hop la” have been some interesting sayings that I haven’t heard in my previous French classes, until I started noticing my French teacher saying “hopla!” very frequently, along with “du coup” and “en fait.” “Du coup” is intended to mean “also” or “so” but is often used as a filler word, similar to the usefulness of the interjection of “like” into the middle of sentences. “En fait” is another phrase I try to weave into my conversations with French speakers to sound more French, because it is heavily used by the French as well, meaning “actually.”

In a similar vein to “hopla!,” I often hear the utterances of “tak tak tak” when my French friends or cashiers are completing certain tasks. As I was writing this blog post, I was working in a café by my school as I heard the cashier ringing someone up, and as he was typing in their order, it was accompanied by “tak tak tak.” I have loved living in France to really start noticing the certain French sayings that often don’t directly translate into English, such as “tak tak tak.” I have started noticing myself absentmindedly muttering “tak tak tak,” along with “hopla,” which really helps me see the benefits of fully immersing myself in the French language and culture. While constantly speaking in French has certainly been mentally strenuous at times, it is certainly exciting to see the brain fatigue pay off by absorbing French habits.

Traveling by train

I didn’t budget train trips in my summer experience. I didn’t think I’d do a lot of traveling as I would not have time, but then, I am too restless to stay in one place. Weekend trips and short getaways became very common.

In France, it is easy to travel as long as you have money. Foreigners can easily rent a car, which is a bit pricey, but provides more flexibility. Then, there are buses (like FlixBus, Europe’s biggest bus operator), and trains. The trains are especially efficient because they are faster than buses (super speedy), have lots of direct routes with shortest connections, and provide wonderful comfort.

The problem is that trains are expensive. Very expensive. A trip in a high-speed train that covers around 300 kilometers costs around 100 Euros. Smaller trains are cheaper, but expect to pay something around 50 Euros for a one-way ticket. There are also short-distance trains, where cost would vary from around 5 to 10 euros.

Sometimes train workers go on strike. So be aware of that, too. An expensive ticket does not guarantee that the train will show up. The train workers are efficient and transparent, so they inform about strikes in advance – and you can play your journey in-between train interruptions.

Ukrainian citizens are allowed to travel on some trains for free. This is because of Russian invasion into Ukraine, and the help that the French government is providing to Ukrainian citizens. Not every municipality or a community is aware of that, but it is possible to get free tickets when you know your rights.

I got myself two free train tickets this way. I didn’t care about the destination too much as long as I got to enjoy the view as I went. I figured that as long as I get to see something new, I can go anywhere.

I visited Nantes, Paris, and Strasbourg this way. For some tickets, I decided to pay (I felt awkward getting free tickets) – but I was happy I saved up some money on the two tickets I got with my passport.

There are lots of train discounts for students in France. If you are younger than 26, you pay only a small fraction of the price, which makes travels much more affordable. For people who plan to stay in France for a very long time, there is an option to purchase a long-term train ticket which allows you to travel on a certain route for less money. Overall, there are many options.

I encourage people to do small or longer trips if they can. There is something about the train, its typical noise and movements that makes the experience so memorable.

Stories over French brunch

Food is key to the French culture. This may sound cliché, and it is, but it is also the truth. Some of my most memorable moments in France are related to food. Even if you’re not big on trying out new things or don’t pay much attention to your diet, France can change that easily. Food connects people here. Literally.

Here’s how.

Learning a language can get dull sometimes, especially if that’s your only activity in a foreign land. I am one of those people who desperately needs a change of scenery. New people, new stories, new experiences. It gets dull to connect with the same students all the time, too, so I seek out strangers from the outside. And I found some.

I decided to crush an event that seemed really cool in the local youth center, a very beautiful culture house where there are books, comfy chairs, and lots of company. The event was on Europe, European solidarity, and youth involvement. Hence, the audience was young, active, and French.

The event was open to the public, but it seemed like everyone knew everyone. Well, except for me. People were chatting over wine which I don’t drink, and having a good time, and I, on the other hand, had a hard time to strike a conversation with anyone. So instead, I grabbed a book that was nearby and tried to read it in the middle of the networking/party thing.

Now, a kind soul, a nice local French man, started talking to me. He and his friend were kind enough to ask me about the book, and when they heard my accent, they even tried to switch to English – a nice effort which I immediately rejected. So we chatted in French. Soon, their friends joined us, and we were having a nice conversation in French of how good/bad Macron is, and whether fascists will gain even more momentum in Europe (scary reality we’re seeing across many places).

As we were chatting, I complained a bit that I don’t know a lot of French people, and I would love to experience France in a way that’s different from the classroom.

Delicious French bread by Alan Rodriguez.

Maybe it was my voice, or just the sad look on my face, but I got an invite to a brunch that was happening the same week, on Saturday. And obviously, I went.

Now, when I was coming to brunch, I didn’t expect that there’d be so many bread-things. I am from Ukraine, and we are quite famous for our grains (bread is great), but we would not offer so many different types of bread and cookies in one event. There would normally be a variety of foods, so you’d choose some veggies, fruit, cheese, or else.

But the French brunch to which I went definitely had bread as its main course. There were obviously croissants and baguettes, but then, there was a gigantic variety of majestic breads with different colors, structure, and shapes. They tasted differently, too. Then, there were cookies and non-sweet pastries that were something in between a piece of bread and a biscuit.

Now, turns out that my host’s father is a baker. They have a farm with lots of grain fields, so they grow and produce everything altogether. This is a family business, which is quite profitable and joyful – or so it seemed.

I was fascinated. In my home in Ukraine, we used to bake bread for some years (I also grew up on a farm), but then, we stopped as the bread production got more expensive – so it was cheaper to buy mass produced bread than to make your own.

This is the same in France, so many smaller producers are forced out of business because of the trend. Nils’ father, however, still gets by and even makes profits.

“We know that the agricultural business in Ukraine is very competitive, and we are ready to welcome you in Europe,” Paul (the father) told me during the brunch, “French farmers have accepted that Ukrainian farmers may crush us, but that’s because you’re very good at what you do.”

I was flattered to hear that, but even more, I was happy to hear that the guy knew and welcomed Ukrainian businesses coming to France even if it meant more challenges for him. To this man – as well as many people I have meet here – Europe was about being open and welcoming.

Nils’ parents, Paul and Lillie, got married thanks to their love for bread, by the way. So the food literally connected this fun family.

I had a wonderful time there, and I realized that during brunch, I communicated in French completely at ease. Proud moment.

Taloa de Chevre – Basque-style Fajitas

Staying in a hostel has been full of “bonjour!” and “au revoir!” almost everyday, with new people coming and going, some staying for 3 weeks, while others stay for 3 nights. It has been really enriching staying in such a multicultural environment, where I have met people from all over the world from all walks of life. Along with that comes plenty of delicious food! Nami House, the hostel I have been staying at, hosts barbecues about each week, where everyone in the hostel brings something to share in the barbecue, while sharing how meals are typically prepared and eaten in their country.

The owners of the hostel also help ensure the guests in the hostel are immersed in French culture, so we will typically start with apéro, about an hour or so before we begin dinner. Apéro is a time where we all convene for a light snack or drinks and we will typically be snacking as we prepare our meals that we are sharing with the hostel. After apéro, we begin dinner, which in typical French fashion, typically will last around 2 hours or so. The long dinners are something I really value about French culture where it is a priority to join around a nice meal without any pressure of time, just enjoying each other’s company. I hope that this will be something I bring back to the states, where oftentimes I’d fall in the habit of keeping dinners with friends and family always less than an hour, typically more around 30 minutes or so. However, the emphasis on a non-rushed dinner provides a sense of calm in a hectic life.

The taloa de chevre came with roasted potatoes, lettuce, onions, and a slice of cheese as the side dishese.

In addition to enjoying French and international cuisine at the hostel, I have been to Bidart, a traditional Basque town, about a 45 minute bike ride from Anglet (which for my friend and I took about an hour and a half because it is quite a hilly coastal ride!) In Bidart, there is a lovely Basque market in the town square, surrounded by the picturesque white buildings with red shutters, in typical Basque fashion. My friend and I found a lovely restaurant in the middle of the town square, with a great view of the Bidart outdoor market. We ordered a taloa de chevre, which, as my waiter put it, a Basque version of fajitas. I was expecting some grilled sliced veggies with some sort of twist. To my pleasant surprise, I received a corn tortilla full of a round of goat cheese. I was slightly shocked to receive a tortilla decorated solely with some warmed goat cheese and calling that “fajitas” but I had absolutely no complaints. After discussing with the server further, I discovered that taloa is a popular street dish in the Basque Country. Taloa is a type of corn tortilla, with an interesting history of the native Basque Country corn, Grand Roux corn. In the 16th century, Grand Roux corn was a staple in the local diet, and was believed to have disappeared at the beginning of the 20th century. However, Grand Roux corn was rediscovered in the 1990s in a convent in Basque Country and was reintroduced into the French Basque diet and culture. In discussion with my friend from the Basque Country, he attested that taloa continues to be a staple in the Basque Country and is typically found in markets and festivals from street vendors.

What a bliss it is to be French

To be honest, I find it a bit frustrating to talk to the French. I try my best, and I am not shy despite a very strong accent. Yet, whenever people hear me, they try to be accommodating and switch to English. I noticed this the most around young people. They are most likely to know English, and they are normally the most interested in speaking it. While I appreciate the kind gesture, I wish they would stop. After all, I want to practice, especially in situations that are unpredictable.

The dislike for English language is nothing but a stereotype in France. People do like to speak English; it’s just a lot of them (and this is great for me, actually) don’t know any foreign language. The lack of other language skills among the locals is perfect for those who want to be in situations where it’s French or nothing.

A beautiful green creature in a park in Nantes, which I visited for a short trip (Northwestern France).

French people talk extremely fast. They use slang a lot, too, and they “eat” some words sometimes, so it is tricky to understand them. News, podcasts, and official announcements are much easier than the spoken language that I hear on the streets because locals don’t care that much about grammar, perfect pacing, and other standards. I feel like if I can master a long conversation with a perfect stranger on a variety of topics ranging from Macron to Ukraine, then it is when I can say that I made it in my language learning.

A thing that’s a little bit unique to me is the fact that I am Ukrainian. Therefore, a lot of French people ask me about Ukraine, how things are back home, and so on. It is quite kind and logical given the Russian war; therefore, I get to educate and explain a lot of things about Ukraine while practicing my French. I found this to be rewarding and challenging at the same time, and I am happy to see that my French is getting to the level where I can actually express whatever it is that I want to convey on this difficult and important topic. I learned such words as imperialism, colonialism, European responsibility, values, and so on. Great!

Overall, I like the French. Interactions are interesting. People are straightforward and have a good sense of humor (for the most part!). They are content with their lives, and this is contagious.

Fête de la Musique: Filling the Longest Day of the Year With Music !

June 21st: the longest day of the year in the Northern Hemisphere and the day where France fully maximizes this extended daylight. France utilizes this longest day by filling it with local music, artists, bands, and plenty of dancing for the Fête de la Musique. My French friends described this incredible spectacle as streets lined with local artists, local marching bands decorating the streets, and plenty of Brazilians doing capoeira at any corner, and they did not disappoint!

There are many Brazilians who perform capoeira, and there was no shortage of capoeira at the Fête de la Musique in Bayonne! Speaking with Vinicius, one of my friends who works at my hostel, is from Sao Paolo, Brazil, and he shared how when he was in high school, he was also taught how to dance capoeira, which is a common after-school activity. It is so incredible to watch these performers defy gravity!

Being located in the Basque Country, there was so much Basque culture on display, with various bands donning the iconic white t-shirt and red bandana wrapped around their necks, with drums matching the red/white color contrast.

Fête de la Musique is a national French holiday where in every area of France, the whole day is dedicated to enjoying local artists and filling the longest day of the year with community and dancing. Throughout France you can find masses of people taking to the streets and enjoying local music and festivities.

When discussing with a French rugby player staying at my hostel, he kept saying “merci Jack Lang!” while we were sharing our experiences at the Fête de la Musique, which he credited the development of this world music day to the Minister of Culture, Jack Lang, in 1981. From the tourism office in Anglet, I learned that Fête de la Musique has become an international success, spreading to over 120 countries around the world that celebrate accessibility to music. From my conversations with the tourism office and my French friends, I have learned that, particularly in the Basque Country in France, there is great emphasis on gathering in community for dancing and music.

Within the Basque Country, there is a debate about which city is best for the Fête de la Musique. My French teacher, who has grown up in Anglet, was a huge advocate of the Bayonne festival, and I am grateful for that, because Bayonne is a more traditional Basque city, with beautiful architecture and two rivers running through. In this picture above, the band is playing along one of the rivers!

On June 21st, I navigated the public transport alongside friends from my language school and from my hostel, practicing our French as we attempted to find our way back to the right bus after initially taking the bus in the opposite direction. While it prolonged our journey to the Fete de la Musique, it certainly helped us practice our French! Once we made it to the city of Bayonne, we walked along the river, following a boat that was chugging along towards the sound of music.

We walked along the cobblestone streets and were met with our first performance, a small tent set up along the river with a band singing quite a diverse selection of music, from traditional French songs, to “Royals” by Lorde. We enjoyed a few songs at the first tent, and then after sharing some dances with locals, we carried on to the center where there was a large square, with different corners of the square featuring local artists and dancers, and a large stage on another end of the square. The origins of Fête de la Musique come from a desire to bring together musicians from professionals to amateurs to light up the street with song and dance. For the program for Fête de la Musique in Bayonne, I saw this played out, with amateur artists garnering large crowds in different streets, and professional performers being featured on stages later into the night. In my conversations with passersby, everyone seemed very proud of this tradition to celebrate music from all over the world, and dedicating a day to appreciating the community that music brings.

As the night progressed, I had had many conversations with various locals who expressed how the Fete de la Musique was their “jour préféré de l’année!” expressing how this day dedicated to music was their favorite day of the year! I can absolutely see why, as it is an excellent way to explore new types of music, dance with friends, and in my case, practice some French in expressing our love for the performers! I am already trying to plan my return to France around June 21st so I can relive this music-filled day!

Cultural Event: Les Festivals de La Musique

One phenomenon that has intrigued me for some time is the music festival. I have learned that there are two main types: private and public. A few weeks ago, I attended the Marsatac festival in Marseille to see my favorite artist of all time, Damso. It was magical; so much so that I cried happy tears on the walk home from the bus station.

This concert was quite honestly one of the best moments of my life. I also made friends with some French people on the bus and stuck with them for part of the night.

At the festival, there were other attractions and artists to see, as well as food and drink, and it took place in a large park that was not far from one of the larger beaches in Marseille. This was my impression of a music festival, so the notion of something more public was very intriguing to me. Online, the public music festival of Aix looked to be similar; the tourism office promotes it as a cultural gathering with all types of music. At the same time, there was a similar festival that same night in Marseille right by the beach, but this was marketed as more of an EDM rave. Although it was a tough decision, I decided to stay in Aix with my friends from class and explore La Fête de La Musique in Aix. I made the right choice. The main street in Aix, le Cours Mirabeau, was absolutely full of people waiting to see the next act on a stage at the end of the street. We walked a few minutes to the main squares further into the city center, and they were also full of people. Bars played music loud, and there were makeshift stages in the corners of the squares. Essentially, almost everywhere you went, there was music and people. I learned that the scene earlier in the day was much different, consisting of more folk music exhibitions.

A large group of Brazilian street performers were also in attendance at the music festival in Aix.

Broadly, however, it was an intensely gratifying experience to hear French music in stores, bars, and clubs. I have been listening to French music for the past six years, but I have never heard it in public, let alone with everyone around me singing along. I mentioned in my application that I wanted to go to Marseille because some of my favorite rappers come from that city. Yet, I did not know the grip that two of them, Jul and Naps, exerted on the city.

This is the sign of the most famous rapper from Marseille, Jul.

As I explored Marseille, I recognized monuments and street names from song lyrics, and it made me feel like I knew the city so much better. All in all, I know for a fact that I will dearly miss the music scene in Provence, but I find comfort in knowing that I can take it with me wherever I go.